Hi everyone! Today we are going to make a mask. A crocheted face mask ! Let’s the see the materials required for this. 3 ply cotton yarn from pradhan embroidery store …
Hi everyone! Today we are going to make a mask. A crocheted face mask ! Let’s the see the materials required for this. 3 ply cotton yarn from pradhan embroidery store 2.5 mm hook If we change the hook size, the crocheted mask size will also change so the hook size is very important we also need a scissors and a yarn needle to weave in the thread here i am showing an adult female size mask it measures nearly 15 centimeter in length. let me give a short introduction of the whole process involved The mask can be divided into 3 parts. First portion should remain tight near the cheeks middle portion should be wider and needs more gap and last portion should be tighter like the first portion then we need threads on both sides like this first portion is worked with half double crochet middle portion is done with double crochet stitch third portion has half double crochet and the thread is made with chain stitches so let’s start start with a Slipknot tighten the yarn keeping the hook then we need to do chain stitches For an adult female sized mask, 38 chains will be required here I”m going to do an adult male size mask this needs 42 chains.. 1,2,3 …42 now we have chained 42 then do 2 more chains insert hook into 42nd chain and do a half double crochet we have to do 8 half double crochet
in total three four five six seven we have done 8 half double crochets For middle portion do 26 double crochets one, two three four … … 24 25 26 . Next we have to do half
double crochets for next 8 stitches seven Eight hdc stitches are done. Next do one chain and turn the work we will be repeating the same pattern for the next rounds 8 hdc, 26 dc, 8 hdc do one chain and turn ….we have to continue in the similar way I will just show this in the already completed mask 10 rows are done in this last row should be tighter as it is kept over the nose so last row is completed with only half double crochets Since we are doing a mask for an adult male here we will be using 11 rows let me show one more row After turning the work, we need to do half double crochets wrap the yarn and insert the hook through this stitch as shown similarly do 8 stitches (hdc) six seven so we have done 8 hdc Now we will switch to double crochet.
Need to do 26 double crochet.. 1, 2, … 26 Next we’ll do half double crochet for last 8 stitches. eight hdc completed. then do a chain and turn again we have to repeat similarly for each row till we get total 11 rows So let’s see after completing 11 rows..okay Now we have reached the last step 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
we have done 11 rows i used 11 rows here since it need to be slightly bigger than the other you can see it came out as curled in both sides with a wider middle portion Next we are going to do the last row. For that do one chain and turn Then we will complete last row with half double crochets okay… half
double crochet now we are about to complete the last row Inserting through the last stitch you can see we have got it straight on the side Now we can do 42 chains for making the thread for putting mask around the ear 1 2 3 4 …. 41, 42 . Now we have done 42 chains Now we need to insert it to the lower side by using single crochet find the stitch at the lower corner of the mask and insert hook like this and do a single crochet. then
again insert through the next stitch and do a slip stitch. clear right ? single crochet followed by slip stitch to make it attached then do a chain and pull it tightly then cut the yarn using scissors like this We need to do similar thread on the other side also take out the yarn as shown i wanted to show how you can weave in the left over yarn take the needle and pull the yarn though it then put the needle through this stitch as shown we just need to hide the left over yarn pull it through the stitch like this and tighten it again return the through the next stitch secure the thread like this if required we can do it one more time to secure it firm now the yarn will not come out from this for sure then cut the yarn we will do a thread like this on the other side of the mask take the corner of the other side, insert hook and pull the yarn through it the put a knot like this then insert the hook and pull the yarn then continue doing the chain stitches (42) then attach it to the other end insert through one stitch, tighter and do a single crochet insert through next stitch, do a slip stitch followed by a chain stitch cut and pull yarn like we did earlier The mask will be ready after we weave in this also Hope everyone liked today’s tutorial. This is adult size male mask. If you want to do for kids, just start with smaller chain size (less number of chains) do 6 stitches (hdc) on both sides and adjust accordingly make same number of chains in thread similar to the number of chains used in the beginning we can put either a tissue when wearing the mask for additional safely or attach a rectangular piece if cotton cloth here Then our mask is completely ready thank you !
Well, to start knitting our neck scarf type, the first thing I will show next thing yeah let’s use a wool indicated for needles 6 millimeters, what I have here are …
Well, to start knitting our neck
scarf type, the first thing I will show next thing yeah let’s
use a wool indicated for needles 6 millimeters, what I have here are
two types of wool, two thicknesses of wool look, it is very thin, it is indicated
for 2 millimeter needles and this for 4 millimeter needles, if I join me
the thickness remains, obviously from 6 millimeters but I’m going to knit on needles
7 millimeters, what do I do and explain all this so that the fabric is loose yes, this I think I have already explained several times or we can also
use a wool that we buy that is indicated for 6 millimeters without being
combining wool, in this case I I want to combine, because I’m going to show you,
look here, this one I already have woven it looks very nice as well as marbled
the two colors of wool that I have here then we will continue we will
work on 7 millimeter needles and we will mount 42 points and these 42
points let’s imagine they are mounted here we will knit them in the stitch that
I will teach you next up to 45 centimeters long
because what we want is to knit a perfect square 45 wide by 45
centimeters tall yes well then a once we have already woven this square
I’m going to give you directions on how put the button and how to put this one together
neckerchief neck while something important important is that I no longer put
now needles number 7 needles the number 6 because they told me that according to
where they were sometimes varied the number if the thickness of the needles
then when I speak now of needle of 7 millimeters I mean the thickness of the
needles alright let’s start then to knit this is the explanation we go with
the practice well look in this case I’m going to
use as I already told you two types of long
of different thickness to reach me as far as I need you go
to mount 42 stitches on your 7 needles millimeters thick but I’m going to
mount only 10 points to explain how the stitch is woven like this
I mount the stitches like this on the needles and if you still don’t know how to do it you can see
our video there we will show you four different ways of mounting points 3
4 5 89
10 let’s imagine we already have our 42 mounted points which you are going to mount
what are we going to do let’s knit the first race all on right stitch if you take the points over here in the
first race is fine I also took the back because it gives me
easier to knit are more weak but how do you feel more
comfortable the important thing is that you have all the race at right point
we will knit like this then our 42 points i’m just doing one
sample and once we’ve knitted those 42 points we will do the following
we knit the first right stitch I pick up yarn over like knitting backwards
yeah but I knit right point is I do a loop again lifted the strand
and knit right stitch again I get up the strand and knit right stitch and I’m going to
knitting very loose I lift the stitch yarn right so I’m going to go for all 42
points yes remember I leave you a 10 point sample to tell you or
show you how the stitch is but you go to mount 42 points well I lift the strand
right yew carrying the yew strand right point
so I finish the second race and go for the third race and all the races
odd i’m going to knit them like this first point right this which is the
strand that obviously shows like this the loose I don’t knit it next point
straight the strand loose it the next right stitch the thread the
loose next point right I loose the next strand right stitch loose
the point looks like a common point and current is the one I have and the strand
it looks like this crossed and sideways that the loose
I let the right stitch loose the strand I let the right stitch loose the strand
knit the right stitch loose the strand like this until the end of the race
well we finish the race we give the lap all even races we’re going to
knit them like this first right stitch I pick up the thread what
that we did until a moment ago without right stitch I lift the strand stitch
right I lift the strand right stitch I lift the strand right stitch raised
the right stitch I lift the strand like this until
finish knitting the whole race all the points in the same way and
we will repeat the way we knit the odd points only the first point
right and then I release the strand for knitting is another stitch right loose the
strand another stitch loose the strand another
black loose right knit Now if I don’t want to get confused
I can put a little mark on anyone of the sides to be able to differentiate them
now I show you as well last point right and look how this is forming
point that’s pretty loose I’m going to do i’m going to use a marker a clasp
very small hair its a must see a little piece of wool yarn as you like
in this case i’m going to use this safety pin and I will put it on
here where it comes from being the right of my garment because I want to mark the
side where I’m going to make the loops or strands is to say every time I see this
marker tells me that I will knit the first right stitch I pick up the strand
right stitch I lift the strand stitch right I lift the strand right stitch
I lift the strand right stitch and so I’m going to go through all the points
every time i see i’m on the side of my marker pulling up the strand and
knitting a right stitch When I see that I’m on the side that doesn’t
I have a marker, that’s where I’m going to do what i’m doing from that moment
a right stitch loose the strand stitch right loose the strand right stitch
I loose the strand right stitch I loose the strand
that’s all i’m going to do for all the races I will only repeat
these two races until with my 42 points I have
45 centimeters tall in my fabric that also going to be 45 wide
look at this is how it has to look now I’m going to show you the real size look here is how nice it looks like
a foam like a mesh it looks very nice this point is quite
openwork we are going to use it to knit some very nice summer blouses well
look so I’m here what am I going to
do when I already have the measurement on this case
i want to show you i’m on the side where should i knit
a right stitch drop the strand yes right stitch drop strand stitch
right to drop it if I’m right here where I am located on this side I must
always letting go of the thread here I can close the points I must have the
normal run to be able to drop the point and then later when I have all the points
normal I’m just going to close or finish off the points then I will go like this
weaving this race to run out strands with the saga if in other words
when i go to close the stitches i shouldn’t of having strands or loops on my needles
then I will continue like this until finish this race well this race ended well
and I have in my right hand needle all normal points without works or
linked I’m going to go around and I’m going to knit one last run all knitted
right now without making any strands waves well all right points
from the first to the last well ended up like this then knitting all
this race and what I’m going to do now is finish off
all the points as I am going to do already before we have made I leave the first point
right the second one too and I pass the previous over the last one that I have
I knit this stitch again and this one go over
I leave you the next point right and this one goes over
so I’m going to finish off or finish this tissue
o’clock right as well so I will continue until I finish all
the race alright so has reached the last point and what
what I’m going to do is leave some centimeters to later be able to hide
This half is short and I pass it here for the last point now I want
show them what our fabric looks like it’s a pretty addicted lime point just as they see it this is how the ends look
where do we start knitting and where we end the knitting
basically it’s a square if I’m folding into a triangle well what
let’s do we go with the next He passed
well what we are going to do now is that let’s hide all these strands that
we are left over with the help of our needle
and we will go in and out like this losing the between our very fabric without picking up the tissue and we return it and so when we wash the garment it doesn’t go away
to disrupt nor will they see each other these wounds
then we look in the corners like this here we have the beginning also of
our fabric let’s cut to be able to hide with no science in this more than
just insert the needle and do pass from one side to another the leftover
the money then we cut the surplus and ready
now we have look at our four little corners right let’s put it like this
because sometimes the camera space does not allow me to show you everything I want
let them see everything everything everything here they are better look
here we have the part where we have started weaving we have a corner and
the other corner and here I have where we have finished
the fabric a corner or end and the another one in any of those four let’s go
to put a button as in this case I am going to use this
yellow and I’m going to sew it here with one of these leftovers that I have from
half and we will take advantage of don’t waste like this
then with a needle that I have here in any one of the four
ends let’s get to know this little button alright here very very at the end in the
corner we are going to sew like this but the secret of knowing this
little button is going to be sewn weak look, we are not going to pull the
rope we are not going to make it very weak because then I’m going to show you
we purposely want us to be very loose to leave a space like this has to
stay leaving a space not much that we are hanging
the little button we don’t want that but we want us to have a space
alright what have we done that let’s secure our button because this little button is the one that
will allow to use in different ways our scarf
in we cut we remove and I’m going to show you how are we going to use our scarf
and we are going to put it like this as a triangle
we can take here and put the handkerchief towards the
front part So we can also use it in another way
we can face this way to the place here then bring the end down and knot
good buttoning would be the brush and the four
extremes on the little button
And here our little game
which looks very warm here only i’m showing you how to put it because
then the mannequin is not going to be able make the time to vote I’m just going to
show the shapes like that like this and we can also use it in another way
but then you will see how it looks like this with just one button yes
we can put like this and so
and one of the extremes and the truth is that hanging it in different ways by
here the head we have left but very nice this scarf now I’m going to
show on the mannequin what it looks like that’s fine this is what our panel looks like
milestone in the first way I showed you if putting it in a triangular way and
I open by turning back at the nape of the neck with our vote i’m going to show you the
next way this is the second way when we walk
operating we cancel and do not abandon four points on the button if there is another
shape too okay look this would be the third way
that I showed you and the truth is that there many other ways we can
wear this square scarf with a button in the corner well thanks for
accompany me for always watching from my videos until next time
opportunity that God continues blessing
Traditionally in India, craft is taught only from father to son. Women haven’t had a chance to be able to have equal opportunity and an independent future. So, this school started …
Traditionally in India,
craft is taught only from father to son. Women haven’t had a chance
to be able to have equal opportunity and an independent future. So, this school started
because we wanted to find ways and take responsibility
to preserve craftmanship and to reinvent it. My sister said that rather than
staying at home, doing nothing, I should seize this opportunity
to work and learn a craft. So, this idea
actually came from Maria Grazia, whom we’ve known all these years and who’s been a mentor
for craftmanship throughout. It was her who suggested
that we have this school for women, because it was time for women
to contribute to craftmanship. This is not an upscale thing. This is women
who are on the marginal side. Some of them are staying in the slums, some are just housewives
and here they come, and they are paid an honorarium. I come to learn new things, I love to do stitching
and embroidery and all of that. We teach them the history
of basic stitches. We have a one-year program.
They learn about, I think 700 stitches. And then, they are graded
and then, they do an internship. Hello, everybody!
Come, I want to show you the book. And then,
the internship is the live project. This time, we’ve had
the Judy Chicago project. They learned typography,
which otherwise they don’t do. Everything, how to do
colour combinations which we’re given. It was the first time that they worked
on this expense of panels. They’re huge, right? They’d never worked
on this size before. So, it’s interesting because Maria Grazia
helped us with some books and introduced me to Judy Chicago. And this whole idea
of equality and feminism is something that we first introduced
to the women. And through all these challenges,
they’ve been so excited to find expression. It only helps them grow
to finally be free. What if Women Ruled the World? If women ruled the world,
the world would be a more caring, compassionate place for everyone. With their families,
women are loving and caring. So they would probably be loving
and caring towards the world.
almost finished embroidered paitings tutorial and then who came to give the air of grace is my stuffed pet and this is what I like to do this is it opppss …
almost finished embroidered paitings tutorial and then who came to give the air of grace is
my stuffed pet and this is what I like to do this is it opppss embroidered also let’s fix this ear
pretty boy and also The Angel oops oops oops it’s totally soft and also all embroidered and all embroidered with crystals in metal crochet
the gravel stones that’s it this is what i like to do
these two yes but this one has no tutorial
this one until tomorrow is on youtube and I I’ll share the video with you guys
this is made of pompom okay, little pompom not the very round one doesn’t have some
which are round too but it is more it’s just a little flat
ok i’m going to make this one the clouds i will post there i will share with
you tomorrow on instagram and facebook
on facebook kiss
Good day guys, in this video review we consider SiriusX project, note its purpose and dignity. This video will be in english format. So guys, especially for you, I will add …
Good day guys, in this video review we consider
SiriusX project, note its purpose and dignity. This video will be in english format. So guys, especially for you, I will add Russian
subtitles for convenience, pleasant viewing. We all love to travel. Naturally, someone is able to do it more often,
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in each of us. After all, this is what was founded and is
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is difficult to say that they are now in their most perfect condition. By no means, most of functions and operations
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and other hacker interventions. Moreover, it is constantly attacked by Intrusive
promotional offers about certain trips to different countries, luring a couple of not
quite honest methods. As a result, user remains extremely dissatisfied
and negative about other tourist services. Which by their specificity are not same hidden
and fraudulent as mentioned earlier. To solve all these problems, inaccuracies
and nuances offers a very interesting and promising project called SiriusX. Its main feature relative to other travel
services is that its entire structure will be concluded within a single social network,
where users without remorse can share most sincere and real emotions and impressions
experienced during journey. In fact, this model of project did not arise
out of nowhere. SiriusX developers have done a tremendous
job of analyzing all processes by which people usually look for their future travel route. Which affects their choices and so on. And as you have already guessed, best recommendation
is someone else’s experience, during which a person can openly share with his audience
about how he spent time on trip, what he liked, where he ate a delicious meal, which tour
was most interesting and financially profitable. All this and many other details about which
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user will not be able to erase or somehow delete this fact. This means that all recommendations will be
carried exclusively by a truthful, based on personal experience, during which another
SiriusX participant will already be able to decide whether he wants his future trip to
be same. Another important advantage of SiriusX Is
its decentralized structure, which has ability to work with absolutely any corner of our
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industry. After all, list of partners at SiriusX is
simply huge and everyone here will be able to find exactly what he likes or can afford. In addition, SiriusX project has prepared
a very simple, easy-to-use work process that allows all users to make payments easily and
securely with cryptocurrency and is similar to traditional online payment methods. If you have any questions about project, ask
them in comments under video, or you can ask a question in official SiriusX group in a
telegram, where they will tell you more about project and will not leave you without attention. All links in description under video. And I say goodbye to you. Thanks for attention. See you next time.
Hello and welcome to my first vlog! Is it my first vlog? Not sure. I’m Lauren and I’ve been blogging at American Duchess for like ten years at this point, but …
Hello and welcome to my first vlog! Is it my first vlog? Not sure. I’m Lauren and I’ve been blogging at American Duchess for like ten years at this point, but my video skills despite Having a degree in animation suck This project is a pretty quick and simple one. It is this beautiful 1894 Shirtwaist from Truly Victorian. Recently, I was on a desert island, Lanzarote, for vacation and I was completely ill-equipped With my wardrobe. All I wanted was to drape myself in linen and I had, like, a tweed suit. So I immediately started thinking of this pattern. I got this pattern at Costume College in 2019 and I always intended to make it for a Summer blouse just to wear all the time not necessarily just for a costume. I would like to wear this just for fashion or #historybounding if you will. Big big big leg of mutton or gigot sleeves are all over high fashion runways this year So I thought well I’ll at least be on-trend while I being a very nerdy dork at the same time. I spend a lot of time outside in the summer. It’s sort of diametrically opposed to how I feel about the sun. I really don’t like being hot. I don’t like the sun on my skin. I sunburn super easily as most fair people do. I don’t tan and I don’t want a tan. How did people in the past keep cool? while spending you know, time outside, and I always come back to the 1890s and the Edwardian period because you have these wonderful videos and videos and photos of women in, like, full dress walking on the beach in high heels… in the sand That aside… I think…aren’t they hot in that? Which is a question that, like, everybody who’s ever worn a historical costume has gotten from somebody at a historic site or when they’re out having a picnic, “aren’t you hot in that?” and the fact is they weren’t hot in that and the reason they weren’t hot in that is because it was made out of Natural materials like linen, wool, silk, or cotton and (silk is really hot.) But linen and They were fully covered. That’s the thing When you have Sun beating down on your skin and on your face like constantly It’s actually extraordinarily hot and there’s no protection there and sunscreen will only take you so far. Sunscreen doesn’t keep you cool. But linen does! One of the things I really like about Truly Victorian patterns is that they have this really clever sizing system where you choose your size based on your measurements and you can see the ones I’ve circled here pour moi and I’m all over the place when it comes to what letter of pattern piece I should cut. On the inside here there is information about how to find your pattern piece letter based on your measurements and it tells you how to measure and then a little system of How to choose which size to make. I now have all my pieces cut out and I just need to check a couple things It looks like the side seam is actually going to match up I was a little worried about that because of my back piece being a significantly different size than my front piece but this seam on the shoulder looks like it’s nowhere near matching up, so I will make a shoulder adjustment here. I might do that through the armhole which would be a little bit tricky or I may just gather this to fit that. The last alteration that I’m planning on doing is to extend The length of both of these pieces down. I don’t want to make the waistband with the peplum. I want just a nice long tail so I can just tuck the shirt in and this ends exactly at the natural waist. So I’m just gonna add probably about six to eight inches onto the bottom of this and Let it be free and floaty and then just tuck it in. I’m just gonna tear my linen off from the bolt, serge across the ends, and then wash it so it doesn’t fray too much, give it a good press and then lay my paper pattern pieces out. I’m marking these down from the bottom edges of the back and the front piece. I’m just doing it the same amount on each so that I can add a tail here too so I can tuck the shirt in. In order to fit my sleeve pattern onto the fabric I have to fold it another way. Normally, you would fold it selvage to selvage but I folded it in the other direction so I can fit this on here. So, this is a tip from the 1830s gigot sleeve. We noticed in Workwoman’s Guide that the lower part of the arm, the forearm here, was usually cut on the bias. And the reason for that is so that you could get a nice really tight, stretchy fit which helps keep the puff from doing things that you don’t want to do like falling down too far. You need this to be pretty tight so I’m trying to decide if I want to cut this forearm for the 1890s sleeve on the straight or on the bias, and I think I want to do it on the bias. Because I used such different sized pieces for the back and the front with the adjusted sizing that Truly Victorian gives us the instructions for, I definitely want to pin this together and try it on to see if it’s even… …to see if I need to recut that back piece because I have a super super narrow back and I’ve never really adjusted pattern pieces in this way, so I’ve pinned my my front and back together, and I’m just gonna Stick it on for a sanity check real quick, and see how…oh my god it actually does fit. Okay There’s the back nice and narrow alright, and I do have a lap so Sweet, okay The first step is to put the facings on both the left and the right front pieces these are the button stands, they’re what I’m going to sew my buttonholes into So here I’m just turning under the edge of one of the facings before I stitch it on to the front. Pinning that facing piece on to the wrong side of the shirt front Now just stitching it. This is wrong sides to wrong side So I’m going to turn it to the right side and then top stitch along with the front so I have a nice placket. I like to do the button holes before I do anything else once I’ve got the front placket sewn on Before I do the side seams or the shoulder seams. I just find it easier to get that on and straight. I have this very cool little tool. It is a buttonhole gauge. It’s really quite fun. However many buttonholes I have I will put this on here and mark these. After the buttonholes are sewn I’m just gonna cut them open very carefully Then I’m going to mark where my button placements are underneath and then sew the buttons on Buttons are done and now I want to take care of this issue the front is shorter than the back of the blouse and so I’m just going to stick it on the dress form and Level that up Next fun little bit is I need to get this edge to meet this edge So this is my super narrow back narrow short shoulder measurement and on my front piece, you can see it’s nowhere close. I I thought I might ease this in but because linen is so wibbly bubbly has some body to it I don’t I don’t want it to be wibbly bubbly. I want it to be nice and clean So I’m just going to do a dart. I’ve measured in two and a half inches here and I will keep this measurement for the other side over there and then I’m just going to along that line or somewhere close to it. I’m just going to dart that Okay, just going to pin that and then I will taper this dart out To roughly Where it needs to be – ish – there’s no shaping in this blouse at all It’s big and blousy which is totally fine, but if you want to have some shaping a dart is a really good way to do it. So I’m going to get a here. I’m gonna mark this and then I’m going to use this For the other piece as well so that they are the same Okay, I’ve sewn my fronts to backs and I’m just going to do a little try on. Just to make sure everything is Actually still working before I serge the inside Seams. Oooo, it’s a little tight, a little tight. I mean I do have Movement. I was hoping it would be a little bit blousier. I’m gonna let some out here These are half-inch seam allowances, so I should be able to pick up at least a little bit. I mean, it doesn’t look bad… It’s just not very relaxed Because I’m going to serge the seam allowances on the inside of this blouse I’m not all that concerned with my seam allowances being way too narrow Normally 1/4 inch Which is what I’ve done here instead of 1/2 inch would kind of make me nervous because of washing and fraying But in this case, that’s what I’ve done. I’ve looked the two side seams out for a total of 1 inch in circumference on the whole Body of the blouse and that should ease across the chest quite nicely It’s not going to be a huge change, but it should make it a little bit less tight in the chesticular Region, okay, try-on number two. This is after I’ve let this out for a total of an extra inch up here And I’m also trying this on without another t-shirt Because I would not be wearing another t-shirt under this and as you can see it is much much much better It’s really quite nice. It’s again not like… it’s not pigeon breasted. We’re in the 1890s. Not in the 1900s So it is a little different than I was expecting and if I make this blouse again I might… I might alter that a bit. I might let it out, you know put some more Seam allowance here on the side seams just so I could have that option if I wanted I like to have options. But right now I’m feeling really Really quite good about this. And so I’m going to go ahead and serge the side seams and the shoulder seams Okay progress so far I’m about halfway through my Saturday and It’s looking pretty good. I mean it looks way better on me than it does on the dress form as usual But I’m very happy with how this is going. I Managed to fit it decently. There was a little problem with the bust measurement because boobs But fixed that and I’m ready to do the collar. honestly the collar kind of feels like… This is a collar… collar kind of feels like that thing I have to do before I get to the sleeves Which is really the point. I’m not good at collars. Collars for me go on crooked. I haven’t really done a lot of collars in the, like, ten…twelve… fourteen… how many years of the have I been sewing? In all of those years I really haven’t done very many blouses or Collar shapes, so I hope it really goes well It’s pretty straightforward. There’s a collar stand and then the collar… it goes on top of it. I have decided I’m going to interface the collar stand So I have my collar stand Two pieces here. This is so it adds a little bit of stiffness To keep that collar on top of it from kind of flopping over. This is pellon Fusible, it’s very lightweight, so it’s not going to add too much stiffness Just a little bit. And I also don’t want this to stretch. Linen can be very stretchy and stretch out of shape So I’m just going to fuse this and then carry on like normal This is where it usually oh falls apart… Of course it’s not… I’m going to baste this collar on because all collars are always a tenuous situation and I don’t want to deal with the pins. Just in case, always baste. Collar is on. It looks good. I’m happy with it and we are ready to move on to the next part. I have a Sleeve on, kind of, and it is like way too baggy here So what I’m gonna do is get this in roughly the right place. I am going to lay my arm down here I want this to be tight so I’m going to mark it as best I can if I repin this… All right, and I stick this on it’s a much much tighter fit. I think this is key in this type of sleeve Otherwise, you’re just not going to get the right look And we want to be huge Yeah, nice and tight I’ve run the gathering stitches for one side of the sleeve seam And I’m just gonna gather that up match it to the other Side of that sleeve seam, give them a little bit of pressed pin it and stitch it in place Before I stitch the sleeves seam, I’m just going to leave about two and a half inches on the end This is so I can get my hand in and out of this sleeve and I’m going to mark that with a double pin So I don’t stitch past it. All righty, here are the sleeves before they’ve been gathered on the top. They have They have some gathering here on the…I guess this is the crook of my arm I think this is the backside. The pattern’s not totally clear… Here’s the underarm curve and it’s very difficult to tell right now kind of What’s going on with this. I feel like this is, like, an elephant, or an organ… If I were to to put this on right now, I’ve got a nice tight fit Around my forearm, but I can’t really tell what’s going on up here because it’s just so massive The only way to really get a sense is to just go ahead and gather it up So that’s what I’m going to do and then we’ll have some sleeves. Now I’m gonna gather the top Arc of each sleeve. I’m gonna run two lines of gathering stitches from the points Marked on the pattern so it’s not quite all the way around. You do want to have your underarms Smooth because having gathers under your underarms is never really a fun thing So to set my machine up for doing gathering stitches, I will adjust the tension wheel up here So I’ll put it at negative three – you can do positive three as well But it doesn’t really matter – and I’m going to extend the stitch length as far as it can possibly go. Then I will do one of the lines of stitching as close to the edge as I can and then I’ll do the next line of stitching parallel to that Like an eighth of an inch, a quarter of an inch away from it. This is in the seam allowance – it’s a half inch seam allowance So the gathering stitches need to be within that so that they don’t show. I mean, I guess there’s so much gathered It doesn’t really matter but you don’t really want them to show outside of the seam or the stitch line. I’m going to back stitch here quite securely because I’m going to put a lot of tension on this and then go all the way to the other end where I will not do a back stitch because that’s the end that I’m going to Pull on to gather this up I’m gonna give myself Plenty of tail there. This is not gathered up yet. So that amount of tail is not really necessary But sometimes the machine will kind of stuff gather as it goes and in that case if you’re loosening, you don’t want to run out of thread for it to For the fabric to be on. At the ends here one side of this will be Tighter stitched than the other, so it looks like my underside is the looser side so I’m gonna grab both of these threads together The parallel lines, the ends. I’m gonna go out to the end and I’m just gonna tie these together it’s easier to grab this and to know which line of stitching I need to pull on and One’s going to be easier to pull on the other So if you start pulling on one side in my experience, you can’t go back and pull on the other side It kind of gets stuck. So you have to kind of commit to whichever side you want to Do your gathering thread on. I like to use the iron when gathering like this, I find it really helps to control the gathers Otherwise they get a little bit bubbly and unruly as you’re going along Since you’re gathering in the round, when you get to the end here it really helps to have a pressing tool like a pressing ham. Just stick it in that armscye and use the iron to Control it a little bit more Time to Stick the big thing in the small hole (lol) This is a danger zone because you can always get your sleeves in backwards How many times have I done that!? so I like to hold the garment Right sides out like it’s on my body and I’m gonna take my sleeve and I’m gonna kind of match them and then I’m going to Fold – this is right side out by the way, too – then I’m gonna fold the garment body over The top of the sleeve and I’m going to then get into this armscye here and start matching stuff up Then I’m gonna get in here and I’m going to start pinning So I always pin the underside first. It’s the smooth part – both edges are smooth – when we get to gathering That’s when things get a little trickier alright, here’s my shoulder top that I’ve marked Previously. I’m gonna put that at my shoulder seam and you can see I have some excess here So I am going to pull on these threads some more and just gather that up until it fits into that space I’m just gonna do a really quick check to make sure the sleeve is on the right way. So I’m going to very gently Pull the body of the garment to the right side, turn it right-side out, and then I’m just gonna have a little look-see it looks like This is in the right place So I’m gonna baste this and then I’m gonna put it on my body just to make sure Everything is exactly where I want it to be before I do the final stitching. Here is my first to sleeve fitting. It is… it’s in… but most of the volume is in the back and I don’t think that’s wrong. I just don’t love it. I would prefer there to be a lot of volume here as well. So I’m glad I basted this because I’m going to pull that out and I’m just gonna rotate the whole thing forward. Here we are. I have adjusted my sleeve I rolled the entire thing forward and the underarm seam is much further back. I like the front of it much better It just sort ofcomes in further on the back then maybe I think I anticipate but you know, it’s not bad It’s not bad See this face? This is my unhappy face I’m unhappy because I’ve just stitched in My sleeve So I just wanted to double-check before I serge the inside of this and so I pulled my sleeve pattern. This is the sleeve pattern… There’s one really big problem with this sleeve pattern and that’s that it doesn’t say on it if it’s What the front is and what the back is so I’m definitely going to be writing that on this sleeve pattern there’s also no notches along the top and So I’m quite frustrated Because of that. So I had made a guess and it turns out that my guess was wrong. I Pulled these instructions again Again, there’s no indication of what the front or the back is Except for – this is where reading instructions comes handy – Except where it says “match the sleeve seam to the notch on Front armpit.” So as it turns out those gathers on the front of the sleeve actually go on the front of the body Not on the back of the body and then I won’t have a twisted sleeve seam, and I should have full range of motion. I get to pick this out with my trusty, well-used, well-loved seam ripper and do it again I’m so excited! I’m so excited for that. I was almost done. At least I didn’t do both that way. Oh, well, I find it hilarious Just so hilarious that I warned you guys about don’t put your sleeves in backwards. And then I… I put my sleeves in backwards so Yeah My right sleeve has now become my left sleeve And to be honest, I’m not really sure I like it any better. Everything played a lot nicer When I put this sleeve into the armscye, so it was obviously… this is the way it’s supposed to go in This seam here goes up to here that makes all the sense much more than it going to the back But I think next time I make something with leg o’mutton sleeves, I’m going to adjust this sleeve pattern a bit, or a lot it is quite different from an 1830s symmetrical sleeve pattern and I’m not really sure that it needed to be. Now that I’ve realised and fixed my mistakes it’s time to put that second sleeve in. I’m gonna get it in there, pin it, gather it up, and Baste it before I stitch it The very last operation here is to hem the cuffs. These are too small to get on my sewing machine So I’m just going to get in there and do these by hand. So I’ve turned up the edge and basted it and I’m going to turn it up again and do a very nice fine little hem stitch for a lovely finish. Hey hey! it’s a finished blouse, something I can wear everyday or for a costume. I’m really happy with how this came out Even though I made mistakes, as usual, and I hope you enjoyed watching the process and learned something along the way If you liked this video or any of our others, please feel free to smash that subscribe button You can also find us on Patreon – American Duchess. Thanks for watching and we’ll see you next time.
Before starting this video I request you to press the red subscribe button press the bell icon, under the options menu(shown below) select all and press OK, so that you won’t …
Before starting this video I request you to press the red subscribe button press the bell icon, under the options menu(shown below) select all and press OK, so that you won’t miss any upcoming videos of mine In this video I will show drafting ,tracing and embroidery of this neckline here I have taken 2 sheets of xerox paper and attached them(width wise) now on the top edge I am marking 3″ for the neck width this is 6″ and we have to take 3″ on the lower side again mark a 3″ line and make a box of it here I am using 6″ of neck depth, you can adjust it according to your measurements on the lower side mark 1/2 ” and 2 points approx quarter inch again mark 6″ down wards and from this point give a nice u shape taking 1″ on lower side we will make a V shape again mark 1″ and 2 points as a width we have to mark these dots all around the neckline so that we can make another line with equal distance mark till the top of the neckline make this slanting line with 3 ” as it is required for border again join these dots to make the outer shape of neckline now darken this with dot pen as we have to make a tracing out of it that’s why I am using this dot pen again draw parallel line of 2 points all around the neckline now starting square motifs on round shape of neckline this is to give you overview how you have to do this on fabric this way we have to make these square motifs all around the U shape now on the lower V shape we have to make these square motifs tracing is helpful if you are new to this embroidery, else after making it on one side, after counting number of motifs and stitches you can easily make it on other side now starting the border design, I am showing this first time on my channel so watch carefully, I am making the second step as this is curved shape, so we have to adjust it according to the curve in a straight line it is easy but in a curved shape we have to take care about distance now start from this point this way we have to start, and the same border has to made on the straight line now completing the lower V part I have made this for standard neckline size you can count down the number of stitches on this V part I have made 7 stitches, in straight line 11 stitches and in U shape I think 16 or 21 I will count and show you now open the paper and you can see you can see the impression of neck design is clearly visible on the other side of paper we have to darken this all around , and neck design will be ready now with the help of carbon paper you can easily trace it down now showing you how to do the embroidery, first we will do the outlines in the center we have to make square motifs in this manner outer border can be divided in 2 parts first part from top to mid bottom and then turn and do the second step and then do the 3 and 4 step in the same manner how to corners from neck curve has to be made first a small cluster and then square motif with 4 clusters on the starting V point only one cluster. count down the square motifs the number of square motifs should be equal on both sides for the proper finishing of neckline count down the stitches and do it if you are not tracing the neck design lets’ get started the embroidery, here I am making back stitch using 4 strands of thread we have make this outline all around to give it a volume you can fill it with zigzag stitch with the help of yellow color thread I am filling this stitches to give it a volume it also looks beautiful, as you can see we have to fill it all around now showing you the square motif I am not showing it complete ( with filling part) you can check the first video of my channel I am giving its link in the description box a seprate video has been made the purpose of showing this outline is to show you how to adjust the squares on curved shape if you start from this point you can easily adjust it all around i am using single color thread you can use 2 colors in alternative manner that also looks very beautiful in the next part of this video I will show you new border design and details in part II of this this video so stay tuned Thanks for watching my video, thank you
The thread I am floating on is a black thread, so it is hard to see.
I made a 1-nose rubber swatch separately. How to bend in this state and pick up your nose at the point where you beveled
Let me show you how. After blowing 56 nose, you will be tilting. So after leaving 56 nose, Now, suppose you’re blowing your nose,
But when this next nose is out, move the thread forward, Move one nose from the left needle to the right needle.
after that Please pass the thread back Move the nose from the right needle back to the left needle.
Then, turn the knitted fabric back You can float in line with this next nose.
Don’t put it on This time, I’m going to make a slant when my next nose is not.
In the previous case, the thread was moved forward, but on the contrary, With the thread behind
The nose on the left needle Move it with the right needle, then move the thread forward
Move the previously moved nose back to the left needle, and then rotate the knitting back. Then you can just scoop it up against this nose I’m not throwing it right now
Scoop Now, I’ll pick up my nose. Now, let’s float along Now it’s my turn
This is the point where it was slanted. If you look like this, you have a nose like this There is a nose lying like this.
So when I pick it up in my nose Among these two lying nose threads
The strand on the back And then move it to the left needle
You can put 2 noses together Then like this, Daum Not Now, it’s time to do it now.
There’s a point like this In this cross-nose Put the needle in this lying front strand and in this state again
Insert the right needle into the hooked nose and pull it out at the same time. like this You can proceed like this next time So in the same way
How to make a slope from the outside and how to make a slope from the inside And how to pick a nose from a cloak, how to die a nose from a cloak,
Please work with this video as a reference I’m going to try to put a nose on my nose.
Put thread on the needle like this The first nose is now out. Shattered
Insert the needle from back to front Then put it in front and pull it out. Then, connect the first nose coat and the outer coat and put in a needle to remove it. This time, it’s my turn. I don’t wear it when I see it from behind.
So, you can connect the outer garment with the outer garment. After putting it in, remove the needle from the front and back from the front Please connect the outer layer with the outer layer again.
like this Now, back Please change the purl and purl Keep repeating until the end Connect the outerwear and the outerwear Purl and purl connection Keep repeating Now last Connect the crust with the crust. Then, With singularity Wow please water Ugh Uh 222
Ugh Ugh
I’d like to discuss thread repair with you and what I’ve done is I have threaded a half inch fine Hole, and I’m purposely damaged it, so I can show you …
I’d like to discuss thread repair with you and what I’ve done is I have threaded a half inch fine Hole, and I’m purposely damaged it, so I can show you thread repair so as you can see The bolt doesn’t want to start in the hole because I’ve literally damaged the thread so What I want to do is I want to repair this in there are several different ways we can do it and one way is With a thread insert now the style of thread insert. I’d like to show today is this style here and I’m going to zoom in on that And it looks very similar to a slinky, so it just pulls apart and the inside diameter Once it’s compressed into the threaded hole will be the size of the thread we require in this case half inch fine The outside is actually larger So we’re going to use a special tap that will Be fit to the outside of this repair and the outside is the same number of threads per inch as the inside so it requires a special tap to do it so in the kit you will get a special tap and This tap here. I’ll see if I can zoom in on that a little bit It actually has the size of the thread we require in this case it’s 1/2 inch 20, which is a fine thread? also – on it it tells you the size of the drill that’s required so in this case we will need a 3364 drill which is actually larger than 1/2 inch because the outside of the top Has to fit the outside of the insert, that’s going in the hole, so this tap is only good for the insert We also have an installation tool that we will end up winding this insert on and we have a Tool to pre wind the insert on and I will show how to do that So we have this special drill 3364 for the outside diameter of the top we’re going to use for this repair Set up in the drill press, and it could be in a hand drill and often It would be especially if you were working on say a car part or something Automotive may be the engine of the car, so what we’ll do is we’ll turn it on and we’ll drill this hole The thread is now gone Most apps if they are larger will have a hole in the end of it and a trick I like to use is to put a Center in the drill press and Bring it down into the hole on the end of it just to help start the top square Again, this is the tap that came with the insert repair kit? I’ll just put a little bit of cutting oil on it and we’ll set it in the hole and put the top handle on the top of it and I’m just going to use the tap handle to drive it, but we’ll bring the centre down and again we need a Tap for each size thread that we’re going to repair and also for the number of threads per inch whether it’s coarse or fine So I’m just pulling down on the spindle of the drill press in order to get this tap started and what I’m going to do is just back it off and Turn the tap counterclockwise in order to break the chip and then forward again a couple of revolutions Knock it off and I just want to keep going until I get down through the hole a couple of revolutions forward back it off to break the chip And we’ll keep doing this till we get down Through the material these thread repairs are really nice for aluminum if you have a damaged thread and aluminum housing spark plug Comes to mind right away. This is done quite often It’s a lot stronger thread once the insert is put in rather than just the threaded aluminum Alrighty we’re down through the hole I’ll just back it off Get the top up out of the hole And you should be able to see that there is now a thread inside that hole Alright, so we’ve now set this plate up in a vise in order to put the thread insert in and we have our thread insert and please notice There is a little tab at the bottom, and it actually has a notch on it so after its installed We will end up taking this tab off or breaking it off The reason for this little tab here so when we put the installation tool on it it actually drives on the bottom here So what we’ll do is we will take the insert and we will put it in the pre render and the reason why is we need to shrink this insert in other words make the Outside diameter smaller so after we threaded into the hole It’s going to expand and it’s going to hold on to the outside of the hole and making it stay in place so We will end up taking this pre winder and we will put the installation tool in and just start to wind it in And you hopefully can see it starting to come through the bottom side there so what we’ll do is we’ll just get it a little bit exposed and we’ll put it over top of the hole and We will take our tap handle again And we will just start to wind it in Just keeping an eye on it seeing the insert coming through the bottom of the hole There it is there so what I’ll do is I’ll take this pre winder off so you can see it I’m going to give it about another revolution just to get the insert down below the top surface We’ll take the top handle off and we will remove the installation tool now what we could do is file the top of that surface flat and The repair is actually inside the hole Okay, here’s the thread repair with the insert in The hole you can see the tab at the bottom now. We have to take a punch and we have to break this tab off And it’s as simple as that because of the knotch on the underside of that insert You just need to top it with a hammer, and it will be removed here’s the finished product with the thread insert in it and Now we can thread that bolt in Goes right through the part And there’s the finished product with the bolt in the hole here is our special tap Again the outside diameter is larger than the thread repair There’s the insert that went into it The installation tool and finally The pre winder so we can shrink the insert to fit into the hole and that’s all there is to it these go by different trade names such as helicoidal or Perma coil is another brand name, and this is just one style of thread insert That’s it
It’s not a Katherine couch time because I’m actually sitting on my kitchen chair and the reason why is because I wanted to open up a package that I got from …
It’s not a Katherine couch time because I’m
actually sitting on my kitchen chair and the reason why is because I wanted to open up
a package that I got from Amazon today I’ve already opened the package but I haven’t looked
a lot at what I actually bought and I want to show a couple of other things I have bought
and I am doing this because I want to show the challenges that people with weak fingers
and poor hand eye coordination go through. The other night I was trying to sew just a
few stitches in a blouse to keep in place some sleeves that I wanted to roll up to my
three quarter length because they were always getting in the way. Well here’s a long story.
Took me an hour to thread the needle. It took me five minutes to sew what I was going to
sew. It took me 10 minutes to try to find one needle that I knew I dropped and I couldn’t
find the needle. So I decided to vacuum. And then vacuum one more time hoping I picked
up that nasty little needle in the process. I went to empty the canister of the vacuum
into the garbage but the last person who used the canister didn’t click the bottom part
well enough. So I lifted it up and dust flew everywhere. Twenty minutes later I had that
cleaned up. Wo threading one needle and putting about 10 stitches in to my shirtt took me
an hour, over an hour and a half. So I immediately got online and tried to figure out what I
could get to help me thread and needle at least to help speed up the process. You see I ordered this off of Amazon but you
can get them out on Wish and eBay and they’re selling them super cheap. And now I know why.
They’re meant for people who are like me who have a disability or somebody who’s got weak
eyesight. And the theory is is you put a needle on this over here you hold that carefully
so if you’ve got shaky hands. This isn’t going to work. And then you press this green thing in a tiny
tiny little hook appears here and it is really tiny. Now you’re supposed to be coordinated
enough to grab hold of that hook with your thread and then gently allow this to go back
in and then the needle will be threaded. That’s in theory. Or if that’s too complicated maybe
this will work. Yeah. I’m serious guys. OK. On the other end is a simpler solution they
say. And I know you’re not going to be able to see this but in between those two green
points goal posts is a tiny tiny tiny little hook and you are supposed to hook the eye
of the needle in this tiny hook. No wait a minute you’re supposed to put a thread around
that tiny hook then put the tiny needle over the hook and then pull them both together
somehow and that’s supposed to make it thread. Doesn’t make any sense at all. So these caught
this cost me two bucks for five and then five bucks worth of shipping. So I got on Amazon
and I saw pretty good reviews for this it’s called Clover needle threader. So let’s look at it on the back. There are
very very simple instructions. Hold the thread gently. It tells you where you should put your needles
etc. and what is really cool about this. Everything is labelled. The needle goes in
a hole here. Right there the thread goes here and you can cut the thread here and this lever
is supposed to be pressed in once you’ve got the needle in and the thread in . So let’s
see how this works with Katherine hands. So we have the threader, we need needles.
And here are the needles and those needles come from a kit that I got off of Amazon It’s
okay. It’s well organized but it’s not good for people who have had eye our finger strength
issues. Everything has put in its place with elastic
bands which make it really hard for me to get around. But it does come with a pretty
good pair of scissors. You can only use those for cutting thread safety pins and a couple
of threaders, the old traditional type and a couple of extra buttons and pins. Now this
is where I was picking up needles on Saturday because I did not realize when I was trying
to open this thing that I was spilling needles in the process. So I am going to try to get
one out now. I am doing this on camera. So you’ll have to excuse me while I find a
hole. There it is. I take one needle pointy side up and place it there. I then grab some
thread. I chose white. I haven’t tried the thread cutter. We’ll see how that goes. Really
good. That took no effort at all. The instructions say to place the thread here
and to hold it lightly and then use the lever. OK we’ll see if that worked. I have a feeling
it didn’t Nope. I’m going to try it holding it with my left hand. I am right handed but
my left hand is stronger now. So if you think this is painful to watch you should see me
try to text that’s why I use Voice to Text. Okay let’s see how this works. There we go. Look at that. OK. Here’s the
tricky part for me. Do you see the thread here OK. You see how there is that little loop. I need
to pull that through and there we go. I have a threaded needle.
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