
Bernina 215 02 Needle Threader
Speaker 1: The Bernina needle threader is wonderful once you learn how to use it. First off, I usually like to lower down the presser foot. That puts a little resistance …
Cutting, Stitching and Embroidery
Speaker 1: The Bernina needle threader is wonderful once you learn how to use it. First off, I usually like to lower down the presser foot. That puts a little resistance …
Speaker 1: The Bernina needle threader is
wonderful once you learn how to use it. First off, I usually like to lower down the presser
foot. That puts a little resistance on this thread. You make sure you have the presser foot up
when you’re threading the machine, then that thread gets in the tensions properly. Here’s
what you want to do. You want to do it in three separate steps. As you bring it down on the side, you’re going
to swoop the thread around this little gray nub here. Catch it on the way down. Push down
all the way. That’s not all the way. Push it down around the needle. Come on this side
and just lay the thread back. I usually lift it up. That way, the little hook can get ahold
of it. I’m holding on to this thread very gently
with my right hand. As I let go with my left hand, that will pull a loop all the way through
to the back side. We’re ready to sew. We’re going to lift up the presser foot. Put
the thread underneath the foot and to the back, the little groove in the side to do
just that.
Here we’re going to show you some basics on winding a bobbin with specialty bobbin thread, and putting the hoop on the machine. I have the USB stick in, and I’ve …
Here we’re going to show you some basics on
winding a bobbin with specialty bobbin thread, and putting the hoop on the machine. I have the USB stick in, and I’ve got the
first couple designs up on it. But I want to show you a trick, for the bobbin. Bobbin thread is very, very fine. That means
you’re going to get a lot on your bobbin. I like to take a whole new pack of bobbins,
and then wind them all up with bobbin thread. There are a variety of different brands. I
like one that is not a linty type bobbin thread. It’s very fine and slippery. First thing I’m going to do, I’m going to
talk about, is this thread stand. Get one with a metal base. It is just so much easier
to put your thread on here. You don’t have to worry about spool caps. It helps also with
some of your fussy thread, or even metallic thread. Clear thread, not that you’re using
that with embroidery, but I actually recommend a thread stand all the time. We’re going to go ahead and actually thread
the machine, and use the feature of winding a bobbin through the needle. So just go ahead
and thread your machine through the needle, that’s what these little parts here are for. Now I’m going to show you a super great trick.
We’re going to thread the bobbin through, up and through its hole. I can see the H,
so I know I’m there. Make sure you get it right into the groove. Now you notice on your bobbins you have that
little top part, so the little hat in there, a ridge. So when you start to wind a bobbin,
it’s going fill up that ridge first. And then it’s going to jump down. Well when your bobbin is getting low, your
machine has a bobbin sensor. So it’s going to sense when, and tell you, “Hey, you’re
out of bobbin.” But that whole top ridge has thread in it. So, we’re going to go ahead and engage it.
I’m going to hold my thread up here. I’m going to touch OK. As soon as I touch OK and it
starts spinning, I’m going to tap the thread down, so it starts to fill the bottom part
first. So there is only a couple winds on that top edge. You will know what I’m talking about when
you go and get that message. Because what it will do is use up all the rest of the thread,
and then there will be only just a couple rounds of thread that you’ll take off, and
then put your new bobbin in. So here we go, we’re going to touch OK. It’s
going to start to spin. Pop it down, so it starts filling down below. I’ll hold that,
make sure it breaks off. Then I’ll double check that it actually has no little tails
showing at the top. I can even do that right now. Yep, no tail. Also, by winding through the machine, it puts
a little bit of a resistance. So you have a nice, even wind. If you’re winding a bobbin,
with this really fine thread and you’re getting kind of some loops and some sticky-out things,
re-wind that onto a new bobbin. Then definitely make sure it’s nice and smooth, nice and tight. Because this is really, really, really fine
thread, we’re putting a lot of yardage on here. A lot more than when you are sewing.
We’ll just let it stop when it’s done. I’ve already put in an embroidery needle, so we
are set for needles. We’ve used the multi-purpose tool to kind of get that in and switched over. If you have purchased a Sensor Q-Foot, go
ahead and put that on. We’ll use the regular R foot that came with it. Ah, here’s our nice
tight bobbin. So go ahead and wind a whole bunch. I like to wind a bunch and then have
those ready. So when you’re in the bobbin-winding mode, keep going. You will thank me later. Okay, so same thing, nothing changes for the
way the bobbin goes in. There are no tension adjustments that are changed at all. All you
have to do is get your embroidery thread on the machine, so we’ll take this out. By the way, I tend to pull my threads back
out. At the beginning of our sewing videos, we talked about clipping your threads and
pulling them down through the needle? That’s more when you have a lot of lint and fluffy
threads. Sometimes drag some of that lint up and through the tension area, so we always
like to keep everything flowing the same way. With embroidery, I do not worry about that.
I tend to whip that spool out, get that next color on. We’ll just thread up with this pretty
blue thread here. And all the way down. Make sure your needle threader is in prime working
condition. If it’s bent at all, you’re going to wish you had it. Because every time you
change threads, you are having to thread that needle. So, after your machine has turned on and you’ve
okayed the original calibrate hoop, now you can put your hoop on. So go ahead and, watch
this, I’m pushing it in straight. That foot will usually pop over that. If you
need to, you can lift it up a little bit higher with that pressure foot up button. If that
might help, if it’s really thick fabric. But most of the time you don’t have to do that.
Just go ahead and kind of let it pop over itself. Next, go ahead and find the bracket on this
side here. And you’re going to find, you’re going to push it right into its mouth. And
when I say push, I mean push. Use some force. I want you to push that in, until you hear
a click. To take it off, you’re going to push down
on this button and pull. Pull with some force. You’ll get really good at this. You’ll know
how firm and forceful you need to be to get your hoop on and off. If you don’t hear that
click, the embroidery module will say, “Hey, please attach hoop,” because it can’t tell
that that hoop is on. Here’s those little clips. When you put those
on, they actually have a little tongue. You can squeeze those into the little holders,
and then they can squeeze the part. I’ve got two over here, three on this side. If you
want, you can put them at the top and bottom. Usually I’m just on the sides here. Let’s get in and see how we are going to select
stitches, and let’s get embroidering a name.
Yes you can knit the Bottom-up brimless slouchy with any extra-large loom you have on hand, right now. Hey it’s Denise from Loomahat.com. For a complete list of supplies visit the …
Yes you can knit the Bottom-up brimless
slouchy with any extra-large loom you have on hand, right now.
Hey it’s Denise from Loomahat.com. For a complete list of supplies visit the
website or see the description below. Alright let’s begin.
I added stitch markers to my loom and I’m doing every other peg with the
exception of the first and last. My loom is an odd number loom and so these two
pegs will have the same stitch as always. Now I take my working yarn I’m going to
secure it to the anchor peg. Then I’m putting my yarn between the first and
last. I’m going to the right, you can go to the left, that has no effect on
this pattern. Then I’m going to zig- zag the working yarn, in and out in and
out in and out, until I get back to the front of my loom. My first and last
may not be like yours, but I go behind my last and in front of my first peg and
then I lay the yarn loosely in front of those.. With my hook I’m going to knit
off every peg that has two loops. Remember that my first and last may not
look like your first and last only because we might have a different number
of pegs. Don’t overthink it, just do like I did, when you get to the last one just
place your yarn loosely in front of the ones that follow and then you’re just
going to knit off every peg with two loops . This peg kept coming out so I
added a little paper there. FYI, I don’t glue my pegs, I do that instead, I add a
little paper and put it back in. My peg lives there happily without a
problem. Now here’s my last peg, you see that it
only has one loop and so I’m gonna lay it in front of that one and my first peg
and now I’m going to wrap all of my pegs. This is my first row, this is Row 1 and
for Row 1 I’m doing e-Wrap and so I’m gonna wrap all of my pegs
and the last one I wrap is the first one that I knit off. That secures my yarn and
now I don’t have to worry about it, now I can just knit off all of my loops. So you
see I have some loops on the top some on the bottom. I just knit off all of the
loops that are on the bottom. I keep going all around the loom and that was
my e-Wrap row which was Row 1. I’m ready for Row 2
but before I do that, I’m going to take this knot off my anchor peg. My yarn is
pretty secure at this point and I’m not too concerned. So I started on peg 1 by
wrapping and knitting off and then for peg 2 I’m going to do a purl stitch. So
from the top I take my hook, I scoop it up, create a new loop, take the old loop
off, put the new loop on and pull. I’m going to repeat that process. I’m gonna
wrap the next peg, knit off and then I’m going to, from the top, scoop up, create a
new loop, take the old one off, put the new one on and pull. Then my next one
is an e-wrap. These are called e-Wraps because the yarn looks like an e-Wrap.
But I’m not going to knit it off, I’m just gonna go to the next one and do my
purl. Now I’m gonna do an e-Wrap and then my purl. Just to make things go
faster, I’m not gonna knit off my e-Wrap. I’m just gonna go ahead and go on and do
the purl, I will knit off later when I’ve done my whole loom. Okay, so I’m on my last one, I’m gonna
knit off and remember I get the knit-off here, I also did it here, so I’m gonna
start knitting off the ones that I didn’t at the beginning. So I’m just
knitting off every other one which or my e_Wraps. Alright you’re done with Row 2
and now what you’re gonna do is repeat the pattern. You’re gonna do one row of
knit and one row of knit 1, purl 1 until you reach your desired length. In
my case it was a total of 52 rows. For those of you unfamiliar or not
comfortable with the understanding of repeating a pattern, we are on Row 3 and
I am repeating Row 1. So that’s what I’m going to do, I’m going to start with Row
1 which is a row of knit and to be more exact the e-Wrap version of the knit
stitch. So, I wrapped all my pegs and I’m going now to knit off. Row 3 is a
repeat of Row 1. Once I finish with my knit- off. Then I’m on to Row 4 which is the
same as Row 2 because first I repeat Row 1 and then I repeat Row 2 in that order.
So Row 4 is a repeat of Row 2, it is a knit 1 purl 1. I do want you to keep in mind that I’m
using a large gauge loom and that is determined by the space between one peg
and the other. So if you have a smaller space between one peg and the other, you
have a small gauge loom which means you probably have a lot more pegs than I do.
It may take more rows for you to get the same length I did. For my 52 rolls
I got a length 13 inches. I’m also using chunky yarn, if you’re using medium weight yarn
which is called worsted weight, you may need to knit with two strands as one.
I’ll give you a link to a video on how to do that. When you’re done knitting
your rows, we’re ready for the cast-off and we’re going to be using the super
stretchy bind-off. It is a hacked up version and I’ll show you when I hack it.
For this you’re gonna wrap the working yarn around your loom two times. If you
don’t have enough yarn and then do at least one and a half, get your scissors
cut the working yarn. Now with the hook, you’re going to put the yarn under
the next two pegs. You’re actually skipping the first one, right here peg
1, you’re gonna skip it go to peg two, take your hook from the top and you’re
gonna scoop your yarn up and through. You want to feed it through your yarn,
through your loop completely, pull on the working yarn and then go back to the one
you skipped, put it on the top of the existing loops and scoop down and
through those two loops. You’re going to repeat that process. You’re going to
skip one, go to the next one, scoop the yarn upward and through the loop,
tighten it a little bit, go back to the peg that you skipped and from the top
you’re gonna scoop the yarn down and through those two loops. Then here’s
my hack, you’re gonna go back and take off that loop. Now repeat the process.
You’re skipping one, going to the next one, from the top, scoop up, go back to the
peg that you skipped. From the top, scoop down and
again I am tightening my loop in every process and removing that previous one.
Now I wanted to show you that I am gonna be using my needle. This is an
option for me. I find it easier, you can continue to use your hook. I like this
because I can fold the working yarn in half and when I pull through this, see
how long that needle, that working yarn was and how long it took me to pull it
through but if I fold it in half when I feed my yarn through the loop its half
of it. Okay and don’t skip any parts, that includes the one where you go back and
remove the loop from the peg. If you follow this pattern exactly you’re gonna
have a nice clean edge, then if you leave them on. I will give you a link to a
video that focuses on at this particular technique and it will show you the
difference if leave the loops on the pegs for last. You can clearly see
the difference when you do that and when you don’t. When you remove the loops
which is really important. So continue until you get all the way back to the
front of the Loom and you’re on that last peg and you’re gonna do the regular
thing you, skip it, go through it but the difference here on that last one is that
it needs for you to go back again. So you’re gonna go through that one two
times. Your work is now off the loom and you’re going to sew these stitches
together, it’s just gonna give you a cleaner finished look. I’m gonna put
a knot here, but you don’t have to. Then just bring my yarn into the inside.
There you have a nice clean edge, on the other side is your drawstring. You
could just pull it and it closes the top of your hat. I was going to sew until
I remembered that my needle is on the other end and so I’m going to go ahead
and weave in my ends. I go upward towards the head and I like to kind of turn my working yarn back in the opposite
direction in case I need to wash the hat it’s bit more secure. Like I said, now
you can take your needle and we can go back to the top of the Hat to close it
nicely. You’re going to take the work and put it inside out, so that you’re on
the inside of the Hat, pull on your drawstring to try to close that opening
as much as you can. You are going to need to sew this and we’re going to sew in a
circular manner. So you will see those loops when you created that cast on. And
I do cut off some of the excess yarn just so that out to feed, it I don’t have
to feed so much yarn through these loops up here on the very
top. And like I said you are sewing in the circle. Pull on your yarn as you sew
so that you’re closing the opening and it will close up nicely. You just have to
sew and pull so and pull until it’s at the point where you want and then make a
knot. You can bring your working yarn back to the top and there you have it. I
love this stitch. It is the broken rib, it works so well. Guys I hope you liked this
project as much as I do. I want to thank Carol from Promise Learning and Lori
Kopaczewski for covering the cost of closed captioning. I want to say thanks for
watching the video, if you liked it share it that helps me a lot and don’t forget
to comment and if you haven’t already done so subscribe.
Embroidery has always been basically the first, love and we’ve been embroidering right now for a total of like ten years the design work I mean seeing the look on the …
Embroidery has always been basically the
first, love and we’ve been embroidering right now for a total of like ten years
the design work I mean seeing the look on the clients face when you hand it to
them I love it I’ve loved it since day one I’m still
loving it today well my name is uh Robert Walker and the name of the
company is R&R custom embroidery and screen printing the actual name came
from my wife her name is Rachel and my name is Robert so we figured R&R would
be the best possible solution for starting the business we have a six head
and we have the 1501 those are the two machines that we actually use right
now but we depend a lot upon the six head to do and head up a lot of the
projects you know six that can handle volume beyond your wildest imagination
to be honest with you if you have an order of 24 you’re gonna load 24 times
on the single heads so a single head embroiderer is no possible way to be able
to petition that type of business you won’t be able to handle it and then
you talk about a one-day turnaround that’s unrealistic and if you do and
trust me we’ve experienced its staying up all day all night we went
through it we’d wake up bright and early in the morning and we’d run all through
the night so we finish up like 5:00 in the morning just to do 300 pieces and we
knew right then that this wasn’t gonna cut it so my wife was like we gotta
invest in more machines so we started looking around for companies that could
provide us with a six head and then at reasonable price Ricoma so far ahead of
most of the companies that we petition when it came to the pricing of the
six heads like the company we started with they wanted a little bit over $80,000
for six heads but Ricoma offered it for like a fraction of what they were
asking I say people if you’re watching do your homework we did we had to I
could have two six heads and also a four head about $80,000 16 total heads
running as opposed to six that’s a no-brainer it should be for anybody
that’s out there in the industry trying to make money and I’m telling you I
could easily set this machine up for any client
run any design on that machine and I’ll guarantee you it will compete with any
machine out on the market today and I’m telling you I’m not just saying that
I’ve lived it and I’m telling you this machine will do exactly what it says
it’ll do and I love it simply because one reason most machines will give you
continuous issues after issues when it comes to thread breaks and tensions but
this machine has accepted like every design that we put into it it will
stitch continuously as long as the bobbin hose up it’ll keep right on going
as long as the thread doesn’t run out it’ll keep right on going so we’ve not
had 10% worth of problems when it comes to caps flats we run flats they have not
had zero and I say zero we’ve not messed up one garment yet on
this machine I would say we’ve done cap wise 30,000 units since six months ago
roughly about 200 a day to roughly enough
like I said 800 a day and of course like any machinery starting up there’s some
trial and error so we went through that but it was very minimized but see this
is the beauty of Ricoma if we need the equipment we need the personnel we need
to support the coma is giving it to us for any embroider out there that just
speaks volume by itself when a person says you know what I want you to succeed
it’s a no-brainer for us on a daily basis of here people say I got thirty
pieces to do this is taking me entirely too long what do you recommend I say I
recommend the multi in it I really do it will pay for itself because the least
amount of time you spend in the lab you’re making more money it’s a
no-brainer get the business and embroider it send it to them do the math it’s real
simple mathematics tho I promise you we made major strides in the first year all
right our custom embroidery is planned for the future is real
then we’re running a total of 13 heads in the next 90 days we want to double
that capacity next is to drum up even more business and then by the end of the
year being able to touch our first million dollars hope to do way more
business with ricoma in the future I really do its been a great partnership
so far and like I said it’s just the way they go at it and the way they say you
know what let’s get this guy what he needs to be successful and not only do
they talk about it but they do it if you’re watching this video anybody I’m
telling you you will not go wrong by purchasing this machine if you have the
room you have the space you have the volume or the potential to gain volume I
promise you this will be the way to go for that price you better hurry up
before Ricoma realizes what they have that’s what I tell anybody
Embroidery Stitches: Blanket Stitch Blanket stitch is a common stitch used for finishing edges or securing appliqué shapes. It’s very simple to learn and is useful for many projects so it’s …
Embroidery Stitches: Blanket Stitch Blanket stitch is a common stitch used for finishing edges or securing appliqué shapes. It’s very simple to learn and is useful for many projects so it’s a great stitch to get started with. Start at A Take the needle up and insert it at B Then, bring it out directly below and level with A at C Pull the needle down over the working thread insert the needle at D, then bring it out at E to make the next stitch. Repeat this step to continue Finish off with a tie stitch over the final loop. Making a tie stitch. Bring the needle up above the long stitch or inside the loop and insert it just below the thread. Stitch variation. A nice variation on the stitch is the buttonhole stitch Buttonhole stitch is worked in the same way but the stitches lie next to each other to create a solid line The background fabric is completely covered and will not fray so it is ideal for cutwork, neatening hems, and hand-worked buttonholes.
Mike Lewis here with Christian Martial Arts and we are talking also about how to throw needles or throwing spikes whichever you prefer to call them, it also depends on the …
Mike Lewis here with Christian Martial Arts
and we are talking also about how to throw needles or throwing spikes whichever you prefer
to call them, it also depends on the size. Throwing spikes can get roughly, I mean they
are pretty long you can have 14 inches up to even 16 inch spikes. The spikes I’m using
today are actually a lot smaller. They are actually pretty much the size of a pencil.
So if you take a look at it, it is only tapered on one end. Sometimes you can find spikes
that are tapered out on both ends so it helps when you are throwing it and you have a better
chance of sticking it. What I like to do as far as throwing the needle is have a very
loose grip so that sort of bounces in your hand a little bit. I take my pointing finger,
line it up in the middle of the spike, then I take my middle finger and my thumb and line
them up together and then use the third finger to place it right on the tapered end. Again
keeping a very light grip just like a throwing knife you take your elbow point into it and
then you just let it loose, right at the appropriate moment. It takes a lot of feeling to it, you
sort of have to feel it out so it takes quite a bit of practice. Once you land a throwing
spike into your target, try to remember how you just threw it because that is very important
and you will sort of get a good feel of it. The execution of it and the release of your
spike is very very important. Another way of throwing a needle and this way again it
just sort of depends on what your preference is and actually what works best for you. This
way hasn’t actually worked too well for me but you hold it near the very end without
the spike there, the spike will be on this end. You hold it at the end where it still
has enough loose grip in it so it wobbles back and forth. All you do is sort of just
the same way, you just let it loose, pointing your elbow in the right direction, all the
action is from the elbow up to the arm. You just execute it and flip it out and what you
are trying to do is actually look for at least one to two spins for it to get to your target
which also depends on your distance. So that is just one way of getting started into throwing
needles.
PLEASE LIKE, SHARE, COMMENT & SUBCRIBE video! Thanks you very much! look you guys I’ve been waiting my whole life to throw a curse and now I’m doing it all over …
PLEASE LIKE, SHARE, COMMENT & SUBCRIBE video!
Thanks you very much! look you guys I’ve been waiting my whole
life to throw a curse and now I’m doing it all over the place
check this out ooh sweet ee na da dee da ba ba dee you have to eyeball it’s not
pretty but still to eyeball baby is too you know if we knew where he was
skip it deep a tooth up anybody elevator up to the penthouse
oh yes yes it looks like this mummy is finally ready for hers club first club
whoa what’s the big deal you couldn’t have asked that before when
mummy snake curses on each other until one walks away you’re cheeky that’s right skip first rule of curse
Club is how are your friends about curse Club we’re trying to get the name out
there now look what you’ve done you’re about to see Pedro go bandage to bandage
in a battle of curses against another mummy a real one who she is gonna crush
Pedro you’ve got to do something why me oh right fake curses and all he says
you’re late for your daddy-daughter lunch but I’m not Wendy Oh though I do
like a free lunch wait a sec if whorl in the Cerberus pit
where’s the Cerberus oh you’re a nice doggie
Ernie he asked you a very sharp so we’re just waiting for the mummy dumb enough
to get into the hexagon with Queen Tottenham Oh there’s someone there
oh it’s personal I couldn’t see him behind this behemoth of an opponent
I guess he’s dumb enough I mean why would anyone want to battle her on
purpose okay fine I’ll fix it you don’t have to be so
obvious about it
My best word for November is restful To me November is peaceful, serene and restful The days and nights follow each other and sometimes we hardly get any daylight It feels …
My best word for November is restful To me November is peaceful, serene and restful The days and nights follow each other and sometimes we hardly get any daylight It feels like it is ok to rest. Maybe take a nap in the afternoon and then stay up late. November makes me tired, but that is ok. We have had a cosy November weekend where some of our grown up children came home at the same time Outings, making a fire, long talks, board games and music, and of course some knitting and good food To me it is important to nurture and cherish the beauty in life I think that the impressions through our senses are nourishment for the soul this way of thinking makes it important to reflect upon how we nurture our souls, what impressions do we get What do we see? Listen to? Feel? I appreciate beauty and sensuality I get sick from cold, hard and ugly I want to surround myself with beauty, warmth and softness All the things we see, feel, taste, smell and listen to – we bring into our bodies through our senses then we have to relate to it and we get affected by it I think we can make choices but it can be hard to choose the optimal nutrition for your soul It can be hard to limit the sensory impressions I do not want to get blurred by to many impressions When limiting the impressions during a period of time, I can get more sensitive and that can also cause trouble We need to relate to this world and the society we live in We can not and shall not limit all the impressions, but some But we can avoid some and as usual, it is all about balance I need to close my chakras sometimes Not take everything in, even though it is there Hello! And a warm welcome to the Kammebornia podcast, episode 7/ 2019 Another chilly November day that I can spend here by the fireplace, talking to you Thank you so much for all your comments and messages! Someone wrote that this podcast is about all the beauty I was touched by that comment Because we want to mediate the beauty of life not in a way where we deny all the darkness, hardships and ugliness of life and in our world We all have our shares of that rather more in a way where we get aware of how we get affected by the things we nourish ourselves with Like I said here before, if the sensory impressions we get are nourishment for our souls, it is important what we want to feed our souls with, and what we want to feed our children’s souls with, and our friends and families My belief is that if we are aware of all the darkness and hardships but nourish ourselves with beauty, it gets easier to deal with the hardships. It is like we can get strength and power from dwelling in the beauty So, by surrounding myself with beautiful things, I get the strength to handle difficult and sometimes very draining stuff There is sometimes a lot of talk about how social media often give us an embellished version of reality I think it is more complex that that To me it is important to focus on the beauty because otherwise I could never deal with all the difficult stuff To me, it is not about pretending that the ugly stuff does not exist, it is more about finding ways to deal with it That is why I also sometimes talk about those dark parts of life Sometimes I think of life as a cake. And there are so many pieces, some taste better than others We can always choose which pieces we want to share on social media So we all have to choose what we want to serve, but there is always more behind, that does not show I like to show you beautiful things That way I want us to find peace and strength to deal with the dark and difficult stuff we all have sometimes I have found the mittens that Viggo knitted for me as a child In episode 4 /2019 my son Viggo and I were knitting and talking about this pair of mittens I think he was maybe 7-8 years old when he made these for me I wanted to show them to you I love them and use them a lot It is lovely with beautiful things that carry memories These mittens are very special to me as my sone made them for me as a child He has grown up now and he is still lovely of course, but those childhood years still remain as a memory in my heart but also here in as a reminder in the mittens he made I have also found some other treasures that remind me of those years when my children were small For example, this sweater that I knitted for Arvid once, from left over yarns He has beautiful red hair so you can imagine how nice this looked upon him a true autumn prince someone has been eating on this unfortunately, but it is hard to get rid of it, so I still keep it as a treasure. I find it really hard to throw things like this away. It reminds me of good times Today I found this, I have not seen it for a while Isn’t this a beautiful embroidered project bag? Ella made this as a child, and embroidered her name and a rabbit on it This is really a treasure and it gives my soul great nourishment to see this and feel it And it reminds me of nice things that have been and still is a part of now I just wanted to show you those treasures It is so interesting that when I have used the word treasure chamber about the yarn I have stored, like left over yarns and yarns I have bought or received as a gift yarn that is waiting to get refined A very common expression for this is stash, an English word also used in Swedish I do not use the word stash myself I rather use the term treasure chamber To me that yarn is a treasure waiting to be transformed into useful and beautiful things It is so interesting with all the feedback I have received when using my term treasure chamber instead of stash both here on the podcast and on my Instagram account To me, it is important what words we use and how words can contribute with beauty or uglyness I am so sensitive to words I do not like the word stash, there is no beauty in that word to me. I do not mind of course, if someone else use that word but to me, it is a hard and cold word about consumption Words are important in many ways. It is important what they mean to us. Words can carry meanings and feelings. And we can hear different things from the same word. This can affect discussions and misunderstandings One word can mean different things to different people. Maybe you say something, you use a word that means something to you and then someone hear you say this and they think that the word means something different than what you meant to say. Anyway, I will keep on using the term treasure chamber for my yarns that are wating to be turned into beautiful things Yesterday evening, I went to my treasure chamber because I needed yarn for a new project I wanted to knit another Norwegian cardigan. The cardigan I am wearing is also Norwegian. This is Löytnantshjerter by Wenche Roald I have 2 books, Kofteboken 1 and 2 (Kofte=cardigan in Norwegian) Very soon, Kofteboken (The cardigan book) 3 will appear in my mailbox Here I have number 1 & 2 These are Norwegian books, where traditional patterns have been collected and written down They are made by Liv Sandvik Jakobsen and Lene Holme Samsoe. So they are all about Norwegian cardigans/kofter Talk about treasures! I am so full of expectation for the third book that is on its way to me! While waiting for the new book, I have been going through the old ones and I have now started to knit Frökengårdskofte from book number 2. It comes in different versions but I am making this one, a cropped cardigan, nice to wear over a dress It is also on the cover in a different version, longer and with colourwork on the body as well as in the yoke I found this in my treasure chamber Rauma finull in a warm brown colour and an off white I am looking forward to wearing this at Christmas and also next year when I am going back to Norway I am so looking forward to meet some of my Norwegian friends again and of course I want to wear a Norwegian cardigan when going there I am also knitting on a Sjön cardigan Together with Järbo garn I am running a knitalong where we knit this cardigan in Léttlopi First I knitted a brown cardigan for myself I really like it. Now I am making another one, this one is for Ella, my daughter. I want to make this one to also participate in the knitalong The contrasts are the other way around here, compared to my brown cardigan. The light blue in the main colour and the darker blue is the contrast. I am so glad that you are so many participating in this knitalong! There is a group called Sjön knitalong on facebook where there is lots of inspiration and help to find. I check in every day and try to help out when I can. There are some questions about the cuff, it keeps on rolling up When I washed and blocked my finished brown cardigan, I pinned the cuffs down as the cardigan dried. So just hold on until the blocking procedure! Léttlopi really softens after you wash it It gets lighter and more fluffy after a wash This is the body, waiting for the sleeves The pattern tells you to knit it back and forth and that is how I do it I do not mind purling and I like the variety in knitting and purling I know many people avoid purling and prefer knitting in the round so I have described how to knit it in the round if you prefer that, on my blog We are all different and want to knit in different ways But I want to say that it is nothing to be afraid of, to try to knit it back and forth I guess it is a lot about what we are used to I am so old that I am used to be knitting sweaters in pieces, back and forth and then sew them together and I still like to do that I am used to it and I do not find it a problem for me of course it is a bit trickier to purl colourwork But anyway, on the blog, I have described how to knit this in different ways The knitalong is running as blog posts in Swedish as well as English on my log kammebornia.se and in Swedish, Finnish and Norwegian on the Järbo blog The pattern is available for free in Swedish, English, Finnish, Norwegian and Danish at jarbo.se and of course the knitalong is for free There is no rush either, the blog posts will remain out there to read whenever it suits you I have had a few questions about my pattern the Sagostad beret so, the questions are about the size, and all the information about gauge and so on is of course available in the pattern and I would say it fits an average head, someone has been afraid it would be too small if you have a large head, but I do not think so. My head circimference is 60 cm which is considered a large head So this is how it looks on me I like the fit, I like to let my hair out when wearing a beret As it is knitted, it is very stretchy and it fits different head sizes and you can always make small adjustment when choosing yarn and needles This is how it looks on me I have one grey and one brown This is typical me, I have not fastened the threads even though I use this all the time. So they are here, inside the beret, reminding me of my creativity So, this is the brown one I am also knitting a red one, for Christmas I think I showed that project in the last episode So this is Sagostad beret. I have also made Sagostad mittens and Bottle Cosy. Sagostad is Swedish and means Fairytale Town Yesterday, something really nice landed in my mailbox It is a Swedish magazine that has made a special issue about textile handicraft like embroidery and knitting for example. I like this magazine otherwise too but this issue about handicraft is especially nice of course Tonight, when we are done shooting this podcast, I will lie down on the couch, having a cup of tea and enjoy this I hope this is only the first out of many issues in the same spirit from the magazine Vi (Vi means Us in Swedish) It is also a manifestation about how important the work of the hand is I am glad that it feels like handicraft is getting some sort os a revival You can see more knitting and other crafts here and there Working with our hands is so important and I appreciate when it is being talked about Well, at the same time arts and crafts are being reduced as subjects in the schools, which is so sad and stupid, as it is so important To work with our hands is important in itself but also when we practice crafts, our brains get trained to absorb more facts. Logic mathematic skills and practical work do not have to compete with each other it is like the brain get nourished by working with our hands and we can learn more of the other stuff So when the schools focus on theoretical subjects it is so stupid to reduce the practical skills and subjects We really need both and one doesn’t work without the other So I am glad that the magazine Vi is highlighting this important subject Another thing in the same kind of trend is that it has become more popular to mend your clothes There are several books on this subject and there are workshops here and there I think it is such a good thing to take care of the things we have For me, it has always been a natural thing, to cherish and mend the things I already have Also to recycle, maybe turn something worn out into something new and darning socks, I learned that from my grand mother and I think it is a really nice thing to do I am glad that these important skills are getting more attention these days Earlier, I think I have been laughed at for darning my socks, like it is too nerdy or something also when I have been mending towels and so on. But now it is a trend, and that is good! Maybe it is not so trendy everywhere but we have to start somewhere, right? Maybe I should talk more about these things in an upcoming episode? Iwould live to hear your thoughts about this, do you mend garments and other things that brake or get worn out? Do you have any good ideas about these issues? About darning, mending, recycling and upcycling? Please write your thoughts and ideas about this in the comment section here below on Youtube! We will now bring you along out in our pre winter landscape Thank you for watching! We will soon be back with a new episode. Meanwhile, I want to give you a poem that I love, by Erik Blomberg Do not fear the darkness
’cause the light rests therein We never see the stars where
no darkness exists within Inside the light ring of iris
you carry a dark pupil, ’cause dark is everything whereto
the light with awe and longing will Do not fear the darkness
’cause the light rests therein Do not fear the darkness
which the heart of light is carrying A warm and heartfelt thank you to all of you, supporting the Kammebornia podcast! You make it possible for us to keep on going! Thank you to all our generous patrons! If you are curious about what it means to be a patron, you can find more information on patreon.com/Kammebornia We also have sponsors that we want to thank and warmly recommend! YlloTyll is a lovely yarn store in Uppsala but it can also be found on yllotyll.com Ullcentrum is located on Öland and they carry Swedish wool yarn in lots of lovely colours! You can find them at ullcentrum.com Yarnesty, Anna Friberg, is a knit wear designer as well as tech editor You can find her patterns on ravelry and more information on knitway.se
So three years ago I reviewed the Tuft & Needle mattress since then I’ve gotten quite a few comments, questions from people asking me if I could do a follow-up review …
So three years ago I reviewed the Tuft &
Needle mattress since then I’ve gotten quite a few comments, questions from
people asking me if I could do a follow-up review and wondering if I
would buy the mattress again so in this video I am going to do a three year
extended review of the Tuft & Needle king-sized mattress so I have had this mattress for three
years and I actually really like it it is the mattress I use everyday and I
think it’s really comfortable and I still sleep on it every night. Now in
terms of functionality and comfort it’s a foam mattress and after three years it
has held up pretty much more or less the same as when I got it. Now it might be a
little bit firmer than when I got it but that’s to be expected; foam mattresses
over time generally get firmer as they age. I’m probably going to keep this
mattress at least for a few more years unless it starts degrading in quality
but I haven’t really noticed anything bad so far so here’s what I like about
the Tuft & Needle king size mattress it’s really comfortable it’s not the
type of foam mattress that you sink into and you feel claustrophobic and it’s
really nice you you feel like you’re kind of floating on top of it rather
than sinking deep into the mattress it’s also a temperature neutral mattress I
sleep pretty hot and so this is really nice for me because unlike a lot of
other foam mattresses it really doesn’t heat up and retain
heat too much and also I sleep on my side I sleep on my stomach and I sleep
on my back and the Tuft & Needle mattress is great for all of those
sleeping positions at least for me so it doesn’t really matter what type of
sleeper you are I feel like this mattress is going to make you
comfortable now a few things that I don’t like number one I sleep pretty hot
so even though this is a temperature neutral mattress for me I would consider
buying something with a little bit better cooling technology now I actually
don’t sleep with a mattress pad on this mattress I sleep with a mattress cover
in addition to the one that already comes with it and that you’re not
supposed to remove it’s a very thin mattress cover I actually had a mattress
pad on this and I had to take it off just because it retained
much heat I know Tuft & Needle has come out with a new model the Mint mattress
and I think that sleeps a little bit cooler and there’s a lot of newer
mattress technologies that have come out even in the last three years so I would
consider one of those maybe over this one another thing and this is a king but
this mattress is pretty hefty it’s a little bit tough to move unlike a spring
mattress where it’s pretty sturdy and you can kind of carry it around this is
a little bit floppier it’s gonna be a little bit harder to transport from room
to room it’s definitely gonna be a two-person job if you’re gonna try to
move this guy over to a different room or even a different part of the room and
then finally this is just an issue with the the mattress cover that comes on the
tough to needle it’s that white one that comes zipped onto it you’re really not
supposed to take that off and I actually took that off a few times to wash it and
I noticed that the mattress was coated in this tensile like fibers similar to
dog hairs they just got all over my clothes they were really hard to get off
and wash out on my clothes so that was a little bit weird if you get this
mattress don’t take that cover off just buy one of those thin mattress covers
that you can zip over it and wash that and that’s really the only disadvantages
of the Tuft & Needle mattress that I have observed now the question is would
I buy it again absolutely I love this mattress it’s the most comfortable
mattress I’ve ever owned and I’ve owned a few different spring mattresses in the
past this is the only foam mattress I own no but I’ve slept on quite a few
memory foam that were not comfortable for me for the price I think this is a
great Buy now if I were to buy a new mattress I might consider the Tuft & Needle Mint option or maybe even a newer technology on the market that has a
little bit better cooling technology so that’s my 3-year extended review of the
Tuft & Needle King mattress if you want to check out my original review
I’ve linked it in the description below.
– [Kristen] What looks like a nice stockinette hat with 1×1 ribbing is actually a double knit hat, reversible on both sides. That means it’s double thick for cold climates. And …
– [Kristen] What
looks like a nice stockinette hat with 1×1 ribbing is actually a double knit
hat, reversible on both sides. That means it’s double
thick for cold climates. And it’s made especially on this double knit round
knitting loom that rotates. This is from Knitting Board. And we’ll be making
this pattern today here on GoodKnit Kisses, brought to you by
Knitting Board. Welcome to GoodKnit Kisses. We’re all about helping you stich your love and
love your stitches. To make our double knit hat, we are working with
stockinette stitches that are double knit and, also, the chunky, open rib. Now, this imitates
a 1×1 ribbing. On the reverse side, it
doesn’t actually look like 1×1. It almost looks like
a 2×1, but it’s not. And, so, in order
to get this look, what we’re doing is we’re using a part of a color from a
long color-changing yarn, such as one like this,
rolled up into a cake. And then, we work the rest
of it in either stripes, or you can use a complete
solid color up here. So, in this particular one, we’re gonna be using
this bright color here. And then, you can
actually put together these other colors from here. Or, you could use
a solid color here and then pop in something
that has short color changes, like a nice striping yarn,
self-striping, or a solid. To make your double knit hat, you’re going to need a KB
‘Rotating’ Double Knit Loom. And this is one of a kind. It’s the only one that does it. There’s also a Topper. If you wanna have more than
52 stitches (makes 60), you can get the loom
topper, as well. I’ll link to everything down
in the description below. You’re also going
to need a loom pick. You’ll need a crochet hook
for finishing out the brim, a tapestry needle for
weaving in the ends, the measuring tool,
measuring tape, for making sure you
have the right length; some scissors, a couple
of stitch markers, and then I like to use a
counter, a row counter, and that’s especially
important for this brim and, then, if you do
want to work the stripes. Let’s talk about
yarn and the options for making this hat differently. This pattern’s actually called
the Cranberry Brim Beanie, and working it
with the Bernat Pop Lipstick on My Collar color. I’ve also worked it
in a different color from the Bernat
Pop line over here, so you can see how
very different it is, depending upon the color
choice that you make. If you want to try working
a solid color on the bottom and some kind of other
striping yarn here that’s got shorter stripes, make sure that you’re using
something of the same weight. This is also a
medium four weight, but you wanna have something
from that same yarn line so it feels the same and
the bulk is the same, because these two together wouldn’t actually pair
very well together. So, you wanna make sure and test those out beforehand. But it is just a
four weight yarn. Be sure and click down below
on the link to get your pattern and, also, to get
all your supplies. See you in a moment. All right, we’re gonna
start dividing up our yarn. This is using the long
color-changing yarn. And if you’re not
going to be doing this, obviously, you could
just start working with whatever your
first color is. I’m gonna come over
here and just cut it. And you can go
ahead and divide up the other colors, as well. So, I’m gonna go
ahead and pull out the dark and the light gray. Just pull ’em right out and
set aside this other one; we’re not using that at all. And then, the dark gray and the light gray
are being separated. Just cut that. Now, there are some color
changes that happen, and it bleeds into, and
it’s a little bit dark. See, this one looks
mainly dark right here, and then this is a little
bit dark color pop here. If that bothers you,
you could cut it out. But I will say that
there is some transfer of other colors throughout here, so you might see little pops
of red or other darker colors, and that’s just the nature
of this particular yarn. So, it’s imperfect, and
that’s the beauty of it, so it may have these little
pops of color in other places. So, I’ve got my
colors separated. I am gonna set these two aside and work with my
brim color first. All right, so I’ve pulled
out the center of this yarn, and there’s a
bright pink inside, so I’m gonna go
ahead and cut that. And yours might be the same. It’s not much to get rid of. Now, you can actually use
this for the anchor yarn. And you can see I’ve got
a contrasting color here, so we are going to need
a length of anchor yarn. You’re just going to measure
around the outside here, and go ahead and cut it off. And then, you can tie it
together in a little knot, still keeping it a
large enough circle that it will go in-between
these two looms here. And set it aside. We’re gonna put on
the first round here. All right, with the
cranberry color, we’re going to place
it right on our loom. And I want to put
a marker on here, ’cause it’s very hard to see. There is an arrow
on one of the legs. You’ll see a little arrow
on the front and the back. This is the outer loom,
this is the inner loom. I’m just gonna take
the stitch marker and place it so I
can really see it. And then, I also want to
place another stitch marker back behind it so I know
that this is the one peg and this is the one peg. Now, I’m gonna go ahead
and mark something for our brim that
we’re gonna be working. It’s called a chunky
open rib stitch. And so, I’m gonna mark it on
the third peg in the back, one, two, three. We’re going to do a (single)
stockinette cast on. And we’re gonna work two
rounds of stockinette, wrapping it, and then we will
start on the chunky open rib. So, for now, we’re going
to make a slip knot, however’s easier for you. Go ahead and work that. Place the tail on the
inside, on the first peg. Tighten it up a little
bit, not too tight. All right, I’m gonna
hold onto that tail. It gives me a bit of an anchor. And we’re going to wrap
around this peg here. This is the number one peg. So, go around the
number one peg. So, we’ve got the slip knot
on the one in the front and the slip knot
on the inner loom. And we’re gonna go
around on the outer loom, on the second peg, and pick up the second
peg on the inner loom. Go to the front and
go to the third peg, go to the back and
go to the third peg. We’re not twisting
any of our stitches, just going around in
a serpentine motion. So, just go around. And one motion. You can work to the right
or you can work to the left, it doesn’t matter. This is the same pattern
all the way around. All right, pause your video. I’ll meet you back up
at the very beginning. All right, so, I’ve
gone all the way around and I’ve pushed down
all of my stitches here. And now I want to set
my working yarn down, pull up my anchor yarn we
created with this loop, and we want to place it
in-between these two looms here, just right on the inside. And just lay that down. And then, I wanna go in-between
where my working yarn is and my first stitch is, and I’m gonna push
this down in-between. We could just grab our
crochet hook and pull that in. Just put my crochet hook
right up in-between. Pull down. Okay, make sure this is all
on the inside of the loom. Okay, so our anchor yarn is going to stay inside here, and it’s going to help us create
this nice little edge here, this crocheted edge, for
a really pretty finish. ‘Cause, otherwise, your
loops are gonna be loose on the outside of this ribbing. All right, now that
we’ve done that, we just have one
more time around with the stockinette stitch. You’re gonna come from this
last peg, which is number 52. Or, if you’re using the topper,
whatever that number is, I don’t remember. And then, you’re gonna go around the outside of the loom here, on peg one, and go up to
peg one on the inside loom, or the inner, and
come around and down to number two and do it again. Same thing, just
continue wrapping. Pause your video. When we get back, I’ll
give you the next step. See you in a minute. All right, I went
on my last peg, just up and around and down. And then we want to lock this in by taking our loom
tool, and, let me see, I’ll turn it around so
you can see the inside. We’re just lifting up and over and knitting that like that. So, we’re going to knit over all of these loops here. So, we’re knitting the bottom
loop over the top loop. All of them. Lifting up and over. And then, you’re going
to take every second peg on the outer loom only. Every second peg,
you will lift up and move over one. Okay, so I’m moving
the second peg to the number one peg, and then I’m going and
moving the fourth peg to the third peg, and
then I leave them alone. This is only after
I have knitted over. So, we’re knitting over all
stitches on the outside loom and the inside loom first. And then, we move
the stitches over, but we do not work them. So, you will end
up with one stitch on all pegs on the inner loom, and two stitches every
other peg on the outer loom, but leave them alone. All right, pause your video. Meet me back up after
you finish that step. All right, we’re ready to start the actual chunky
open rib stitch. I’m coming from the last
loop on the inner peg. I’m going around peg
one on the outer loom, then I’m gonna go right up to number three
on the inner loom. So, straight back from peg one
is peg one in the inner loom, and then count over two, three. And that is one
that I had you mark with a stitch marker
earlier, if you do that. So, you can come here and then pick up on that three, and then come down to the peg that has the next
two loops on it. So, we’re picking up, making three loops on each peg in the front that has loops. We’re gonna come around three. And then, now, we’re
just gonna be picking up every other peg
on the inner loom and every other peg
on the outer loom. So, come around. This one here, come down
to where we’ve got loops. Go up, make sure
you’re skipping. Go back and forth, skipping, and go all the way around. And we’re gonna be picking up all the loops we missed
on the inner loom. And then, the outer loom will actually end up
getting four loops. So, pause your video and
I’ll see you at that point. All right, so, at
the beginning again, I’m at the last peg on the outer loom
here, with three loops. We’re gonna go up,
and be sure and skip the very last peg
on the inner loom. If you don’t skip this one, then it’ll mess up
your next round, and you’ll wonder why
you have an extra peg. So, go ahead and skip
that very last peg. We’re gonna go to peg
one on the inner loom and then come down to
peg one on the outer loom and wrap on that. And now, we’re gonna pick up
peg two on the inner loom. And then, come back down to
peg two on the outer loom. And it’ll look like this. You’re gonna have four
stitches on the outside pegs, and then every other
one is completely empty. And then, on the inside, every other one, you’re
picking up those. So, you’ll have two loops
on all the inside pegs. So, go ahead and pick
up all those stitches, pause your video, and
I’ll meet you back up to show you the next step. All right, so we can put
down our working yarn, and we’re ready to
start knitting over. Go ahead and go to the inside, and knit one over
one on that last peg. It looks like this. Just go ahead and work
that and lock it in. And now, you’re going to knit
over all of the outside loops. You’re just going to
knit over two over two. So, leave the top
two loops alone, and the bottom two
loops are knit over. So, be sure and only do
the bottom two loops, coming up and over
the top two loops. And then, on the inside, of course, you’re just
knitting one over one, so all of these are just going
to get knit one over one. All right, pause your video,
and I’ll meet you back up when you’re ready
for the next step. Well, you have just
completed one round of the chunky open rib. Now, you’re just gonna continue working that chunky
open rib again, until you have
reached 12 rounds. If you want to continue on with
this stitch for a whole hat, you could totally do that. But for the purposes of this, we’re gonna do 12 rounds
in the chunky open rib, and then we’ll move
on to working a (dbl)
stockinette stitch So, after this,
I’m gonna show you how to make sure that it’s ready to go to the next stitch,
as well as changing color. So, stay tuned for that, and I’ll meet you in a moment. Let’s go ahead and
pick this back up. I’ll just get you started. You’re just going
to go around peg one and then skip over to
peg three at the top, come down to peg three here, and skipping every other
one in the inner loom, just as we did before. Remember, when you
finish this round, skip that very last peg and move on to going
to pegs one and two and then go on, sorry,
to pegs one and one and then go on to
peg two of the top, picking up every other stitch and then that last one. Working them two over
two in the front, just as we did before, and one on one in the back. All right, pause your video. I’ll see you after 12 rounds. So, we’re ready to go from
the chunky open rib stitch to a double stockinette,
and so we need to take these that have been
worked together, and they’re going to go out. So, we’ll just go
right up to this, and we still have the
double loops on here, so we’re just gonna
take the very top loop, pick it up, and
move it back over to the other side, where
it originally came from. So, just taking the loop, moving it to the next
space, and placing it. And this just prepares it to get ready for that
stockinette stitch. All right, so go ahead and
move over all your stitches. When we come back, we will work the double stockinette stitch. Okay, everything’s ready. And after I went ahead
and moved these over, this tail here was
a little bit loose, so I just tugged on it
and it pulled through this stitch and this stitch
a little bit tighter, and I just went ahead and
tied it with this end here, this little tail
in the new color. We’re going to do the double
stockinette stitch here. Now, the one that I showed
you before on the brim here is a stretchier one, which helps with having a rib
stitch on the end. So, it’s almost like a
flat knit stockinette. So, we’re going to work
the double knit one, so we will be skipping
every other peg, making two passes all
the way around the loom, weaving around the loom. So, we’ll go around
the number one peg, go to the back, and
go to the second peg. So, straight across
and over one. And then, come down, and you’re
gonna go to the third peg on the outer loom. So, the outer loom is
all the odd stitches, and the inner loom
is the even stitches. So, you’re just gonna go through and push these down first,
if you need to, which I do. And pick up every other one and go around the entire loom. And at the end, we
need to do something a little bit different. And you wanna make sure and do it like this every time. So, pause your video and meet me back up at the end. And I’ll show you how to
move to the second pass. All right, so now
I’ve come to the end. I’ve done the very last
stitch in this round. And I wanna come straight down and around the outside
of the last peg. So, we’re doing both
last pegs together at the same time. And then come up and we’re gonna
do the next pass, where we pick up
every other stitch. So, we’re going to the number
one peg and coming down. So, you should have these three, these last two,
plus the first peg. They’re all three next to each
other, without skipping any. And then, in the back, kind of moved over a little bit, you see the last stitch and then the first
two stitches are pegs with loops on them, and
then every other one. Okay, so, now we’re
just gonna come down, and on the even stitches on
the front, or outer loom, we’ll wrap those, and
the inner loom is, well, every other one,
which is the odd stitches. So, go ahead and
pick up all of those. And when you’re done wrapping, well, pause your
video and come back. And when you’re done wrapping, we’ll finish this up together and I’ll give you
more instructions. All right, so, we’re at the end. And the very last
stitch that I wrap is the second to last stitch. So, when you start
this round again to do another stockinette, you’ll be jumping
all the way over to the number one peg, and then up to
the number two peg in the same way again. So, that’s how you
work the stockinette. So, now you’re just
going to lift up and over the bottom pegs over the top on the outer loom
and the inner loom. Oops, there we go. So, make sure and knit
over this very last stitch. Turn it around so
we can see that. Just knit that over
so it locks it in. And I would be in a habit of working all the
outside of the loom first, knitting those over and then
doing the inside of the loom. So, I’ll just stick
my finger here on top, and then knit over, and then, that way, it won’t
pop over that other one if my yarn’s a little slippery
or if it’s a little tight. And then, when you’re ready,
you can work on the back, and then push them down. And, so, let’s move
on to the directions for what to do for
the rest of this hat. Now, you can continue,
as I said, continue on. You can change the colors
up the way the pattern has or go straight color
with all one same color. So, you will need to make sure and refer to the pattern, so open the
description down below, that’s down below in the video, and make it bigger and
read where that link is to go to the KB Looms website. And I’m gonna show it
off here to the side. So, this is telling us
that the next five rounds, which we’ve already started
the first of the round, you’re going to work five
of this dark gray yarn, and then you’re gonna work
eight of the light gray, then six again
with the dark gray, and then eight again
with the light, and then come back and finish
with six or seven rounds dark. And then you’re going
to finish that off of the stockinette. So, now that you’ve established
one row of your new color, just take the tail
of that new color and lay it in, as we’ve done
before with the other one. And just continue
working your rounds. You now know how to
change the colors, and you just need to work the
stripes how you want them, or the solid. All right, we’ll see
you in a little bit. Okay, so, your
knitting should measure approximately 9 1/2 inches
from the cast on edge. I know that it is tight and it’s harder to
measure on this one, so what you do is you
tug on your knitting to pull it all the way down and make sure that tension
is eased a little bit. And flip up your brim. Now, don’t worry about measuring where these little posts are. You wanna kind of measure
from here to here. But you really only
need to measure the part that’s flipped up, because, from the bottom of this to the top of this
part right here, is approximately six inches. And, so, you just
need to add six inches to whatever you measure
that touches here to here. So, that should
measure about 9 1/2 if you followed the pattern
with this particular yarn. If you have another
yarn, of course, the rounds may not be the same. But it’s about 33 to 34 rounds. Okay, so, I’m going to
show you how to cast off. You’re going to measure
around your loom and cut about 12 inches. And we’re gonna be using
that with the darning needle or tapestry needle. And we’re gonna be going
through these loops. But, first, what you do is you take the inner
loops, like this, and move them to the outer pegs. So, lift them up and move
them over to the front. So, all loops on the
back go to the front, from the inside to the outside, and then you’re going
to knit over, like that, just put it over. And then, you will just work
with your darning needle to go through all of the loops
on the outside of the loom, and cinch it up and do
a drawstring bind off. And that’s really it,
and you just sew it in. If you have enough yarn, you can go through those twice so that, when you pull it, it’s gonna be nice and strong. Now, it does have a bulkier top. I’m going to show you a
bit of a different way. This is not one that the
Knitting Board is showing, but I think it gives
you a nice amount, because this is 52 pegs, we’re gonna take it down
to half that amount. We’re gonna have it at
26 pegs, or 26 stitches, and it will help
have a smaller hole that you have to deal with, and it won’t be as bulky
and hard to sew through, to make sure that’s secure. So, what we’re gonna
do, in this case, is we’ve got plenty
of yarn left, and we need to have enough left for about two (or three)
rounds going around. And you need to, if
you want to do this, and you don’t have
quite enough yarn, you can go backward two rounds and just kind of
undo those stitches, and then have enough, because it’s going to cause
a little bit of lengthening in our hat, and
that’s perfectly fine. All right, so,
what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna take
the second loops and move ’em onto
the first loops. So, that’s on the outer
and on the inner loom. So, just take those
off and move them over. Now I’m going over here and
I’m gonna take the second, or it’s actually
the fourth peg loop, and I’m moving it to the third. So, every other one is moving on top of the one next to it. Okay, so go ahead and do that, pause your video and come back, and I’ll show you
how to wrap it. Okay, so now you’ve
got doubled up pegs on every other one,
front and back. So, this is called a
decrease in double knitting. And you’re just, where
you moved the pairs over on top of the other pair. And, so, now, when
we wrap our row, we’ll be working
two pegs over one, and then that will effectively decrease those stitches. And then, we’ll
work another round. So, we do a decrease round, and then we just work
that same around again, without moving stitches. Just establishing
that same pattern. So, this is the
pattern you’re gonna work twice in a row here. So, we’re going to go down. You should have your yarn coming from the second to the
last peg in the inner loom. We’re gonna go to the outer
loom here on that first peg, and then we’re going to, we’re skipping the one behind, and we’re going
to the third peg. So, we go to the third peg. We’re gonna skip the
one in the front. Now, I want you to
just completely ignore anything that doesn’t
have anything on it. So, we’ve got something
on the first peg, and then the next
one is being skipped. And then we wanna
go down to this one, which is actually
one, two, three, four, five, the fifth peg. Notice how there’s three pegs in-between the one we wrapped and the one we just wrapped, so the one previous and then
the one we just did here. Then we’re gonna go up. Let’s just visually
just skip three, so, one, two, three, and then we’re gonna
come back here. And see, when we come
up to the front again, we’re gonna skip
three, one, two, three. See how that works? So, we’re just skipping three, and that’s the
easier way to do it rather than counting or
figuring out the numbers as far as like which
peg number it is. So, we’re just
skipping three pegs in-between the ones we wrapped. So, going back and
forth, alternating, it’s just gonna
have a nice zigzag. And do that all the
way around the loom. In my head, I sit there and
say three, three, three, and three, just so I
keep on the same rhythm. So, go ahead and do
that, pause your video, and come back when you’re ready. Okay, so, I’m at the front now, or I’m at the
beginning of my round, and I need to go a
second pass-around. This is where you have
to be very strategic about where you put it. So, I want you to
think in your head last, last, first. So, I’m going to the
last peg in the back. That’s where it
naturally pops to. And then I’m gonna go to
the last peg in the front. So, or, last, last, and then we’re
gonna go to first, which is the first peg
on the inner loom here. And you can see how the
first peg on the outer loom is already wrapped. So, now we’re just
gonna go through, picking up the stitches,
going every other one. So, you’re not really counting
now, unless you want to. But you can see
where you’re matching the zigzag of the next stitch. So, just back and
forth, wrap those. Pause your video,
if you need to. And then we’ll knit these over. So, I’ve come to the end here, and my last one is actually the fourth one from the
end, on the inner loom. And then, I’m just gonna
hold this down and knit over. We’re knitting two over one. You can do one stitch at
a time, if that’s easier, especially because it might
be a little bit tight. Let’s just do that. All right, now that’s
locked in and secure, and you can go ahead and work
over all of your stitches. Two over one. And then, I’m gonna go ahead and do the outside one first, and that is, oops, I know
I didn’t get this one here. That’s the one I wanted. And then, I want to, I work, again, the
outside of the loom first, just for consistency, and then do the inside pegs, because it’s, the
tension is much better when you are consistent
about doing outside first versus inside or vice versa. So, it’ll be consistent on the
outside of your actual hat. Okay, and so after
you’re done with that, I want you to do one more
round of that same wrapping and then meet me back up and we will actually
cast this off together. All right, so I
actually ended up having enough yarn
to do one more round, so I did a decrease round
and then two more rounds, just establishing that
pattern, which is good, because I was actually short
a little bit on the gray. And instead of the
six or seven rounds at the end, I did five. So, whatever works for you. But because these, we
had to cut them out, I’m limited on getting
all of that color in here. And, of course, I
could’ve changed colors and made it longer, but
that’s totally fine. So, now, we’re ready
to actually cast off, so just as I explained
earlier in the video, we’re just gonna pick
up this back stitch off the inner loop,
or inner loom, and put that loop
on the outer loom. So, just simply
picking all of them up. Don’t need that anymore. And placing them on the front. And then, you can
knit them over. And then, we’re just gonna
go through, one by one, go through these stitches. So, I would go ahead
and move all the loops from the inside to the
outside and knit them over. And then, the next
step is to put them on your tapestry needle
or darning needle, and then you take them
directly off of the loom. Especially if you’ve only
got 12 inches of tail, because it’s very short, you definitely wanna take
them off as you’re doing it. This particular one, the first
one, you could leave on here. I always like to go back through the first one one more time. It just, I really like that. And if you can go
through them twice, if you have enough yarn and you can go through
all of the loops twice, then it gets really secure. So, I’m gonna go around and I’ll show you
cinching it together and what it looks like
going through there twice. See you in a minute. I’m just going through two
times around these loops because I have enough yarn. You can see I’ve already
pulled off the loom, all of these loops, and you can see how it’s kind of elongating, pulling
these stitches. So, it’s easy just
to grab my pick and lift that stitch up
and then pull through. So, I just pull that
up and pull on through. And I’ll show you
what it looks like when I take it off the loom. All right, so I’m gonna
pull this off of the loom. I’ve gone through twice. And just start cinching this in. And remember, it’s
trying to go around all these stitches twice, so there’s a lot of
loose yarn in here. Just be gentle with it. All right, so that actually, I know this seems bulky, but it’s actually
significantly reduced. Oh, we got my little
tail sticking out. It’s significantly reduced
from where it would be, and it’s much easier
to cinch these in here so you can just put your
needle back through here now. And then weave in your tail. So, now see we’ve already gone, we’ve already gone through
the whole thing twice, so, really, the tail’s
in there really well. It’s just a matter of going
through a few stitches and leaving a loop and going
through that loop again before you pull it through. And then do it again. I like to do it again
a few more times. And I’ve gotten caught. There we go. And do it one more time, just to make sure
it’s nice and secure. And because this is
for cold climates, it’s extra double thick and you can go in-between
some of these layers and split the yarn there for that last part of the tail,
where you’re gonna cut it. And then, this little
tail shouldn’t pop out. So, that is the bind
off or cast off. You can also see
a little color pop from the way this yarn behaves. This is one of my tails from when I did color changing, so I’m gonna go
ahead and cut that, and, then, when I pull it, it should just
pop right back in. So, that’s what that looks like. And then, let’s go ahead and
finish off this edge here. This is the part where
we need our crochet hook. All right, let’s bind
off stitches at the brim and remove this anchor yarn. So, I’ve got my beginning
tail and this loop, and you can see the anchor yarn, this tan colored yarn, or beige. You want to ignore that one and just go straight
over to the next stitch. It doesn’t matter which
direction you’re going. Just go to the next one that’s going around
this anchor yarn. So, don’t skip any. Just kind of pull on the anchor
yarn, and you can see it. So, I pulled this one
and found this one, and then we’re gonna
go to the next one. Make sure that you’re
not going through the anchor yarn at
all, not catching it, because you’ll
have trouble later. So, once you have
two on your hook, you’re just gonna pull
one through the other, leaving one loop on your hook, and then go to the next one. So, if they’re
pulled a little bit, you can take this anchor yarn and kind of pull up and find it. Just make sure and approach
it from the same side. We go to the next one. And as soon as you
make several of them, you can kind of
look at your work, and it looks like a
little chain stitch. So, you just get these little
V-shaped chain stitches. And then, we’re
going to be working into this first one. I’ll show you again later on, but we’re gonna go through those to finish off this
ending or this tail. So, continue going
all the way around. And meet me back up when
you’re ready to complete it. See you in a moment. Okay, so, coming to the end, I’ve got my last two loops. The very, very
last one is the one that has the tail
coming from it. Just go ahead and
loop that on through. And now we’re going
to slip the rest of it and get this tail through, but we need to take off
the anchor yarn first. So, go ahead and cut that. Pull it on through. And until this is taken off, it’s not stretchy on the edge because that anchor
yarn is pretty stiff. You can see it’s now
nice and stretchy. So, if you go to the
very beginning here, this is the part that I
was talking about before, go to that very first chain. You’re gonna go through
both edges of the chain, one, two, or both loops, and then yarn over
with your tail. This is the tail in my hand, and pull through that loop and then also pull through
your very last loop, and it is now connected, and we’re just going to just
pull it all the way through. So, the tail is through, and now we’re just gonna
turn it on the inside for a little bit. And we’re going to
sew this last part in. Go ahead and get
your tapestry needle. You’re just gonna, I’m gonna go in the, so my yarn had come
from this direction, so I’m gonna go in
the opposite direction to kind of cinch that in and through these two
loops on the inside, this little stitch
that’s going right here. And then, I’m gonna come
back over this direction, just to further get it in. So, there is a V-shaped stitch. If you can’t see it,
I’m going right up through the side of it
and through the middle. Okay, so, now I wanna
do a little trick where I go up the side
of the V-shaped stitches, these side stitches. So, I go through
the outside of it to the middle of the inside, and then I whip my needle around and do that again on
the next stitch up. And then continue going up, just in this little
spiral or swirly motion. And what this does is it
hides the tail in here, and the hat remains
nice and stretchy. And just go ahead and pull
that tail right on up. And then you can jog
over to the next one. Over to the other side and turn around and start doing the same thing, just flipping right
around those stitches and then pull through and
then just cut your tail. And you are done. By the way, a little bonus, I actually created a double
knit hat, that you saw, and a single knit hat. So, both the brims are
made exactly the same, but I worked the stockinette that’s made for single
knitting on this one, using a double knitting loom, and so you’re going
around every single peg as you go in one pass. And then, when you work
the double knit over here, you’re skipping every other one, and then making a second pass
around, and working that. So, that’s the only difference. But what it does is it makes a much bigger, stretchier
hat in a single knit, and it’s not as
warm as this one. This one’s for
very cold climates. And it’s going to be kind of
pushed in a little bit more, a little bit more
snug and tight. So, if you want
something that has a little bit more
airiness or volume, is not quite as thick
but the same look, you can totally do
that with this stitch. If you need a bigger,
double knit version of this, remember, there is the topper. So, that’s a nice little
bonus minute for you. I hope you enjoyed
making your double knit stockinette hat today. Be sure and say thank you
to KB Looms down below for sponsoring this video, and tell us what you think of your rotating
double knit loom. Thanks for joining us today, where we help you stitch your
love and love your stitches. See you again soon.