
Rolling Waves Loom Knit Cowl (CC)
– [Kristen Mangus] Wanna make an eye-catching cowl? This beautiful Rolling Waves Loom Knit Cowl has a cool shoulder detail, and an asymmetrical front on it in a lacy stockinette that’s …
– [Kristen Mangus] Wanna
make an eye-catching cowl? This beautiful Rolling
Waves Loom Knit Cowl has a cool shoulder detail, and an asymmetrical front
on it in a lacy stockinette that’s sure to catch
everyone’s eye. Let’s make it today. Welcome to GoodKnit Kisses, we’re all about helping
you stitch your love, and love your stitches. Today we’re gonna make the
Rolling Waves Knit Cowl, and it’s a loom knit
version of the needle one. So this one was made exclusively for the DFW Designer’s
Collection (vol 2, 2018) in Texas, where I live, and I’ve decided to make a
loom knit version of this. So I’m gonna teach you all of it from beginning to end. If you do want the
needle version, we will have a link in the
description below to get yours. In 2018 it’s part
of a collection, and then after that I will
release it to the public. But for now, if you
do buy the collection, it comes with a huge
amount of other patterns, so get ready, because
it is a lot of fun. Alright, let’s begin to
get into the supplies. To download your pattern, click on the link in
the description below. Today we’re using Classic
Elite Yarns Chateau in color green. This is a baby alpaca 70%
and 30% bamboo viscose. It’s equal to about a
bulky five weight yarn, it’s equal to about 200 yards, and this one in particular
is two 50 gram balls at 98 yards each. Now the stitches per inch
that are on the label are three stitches per
inch for a U.S. 11 size, which is eight millimeter (8mm). Now, we’re gonna
be using a loom, which I’ll get to in a moment, that is going to
be the equivalent of using a size U.S. 15 needle,
or ten millimeter (10mm), so our stitches per inch
are gonna be different, but if you’re looking for
a yarn to be comparable, you’re gonna look for
three stitches per inch with a size 11 needle
or eight millimeter, and about 200
yards or 100 grams. All right, so
that’s what that is, and you need to make sure it
has a really nice drape to it. This is just beautiful,
and lofty, and squishy, and I really love it. All right, for the loom
you’re going to need an extra large gauge loom. I’m using an extra large round
adult hat loom from Boye. You could use the Knifty Knitter or another generic type. You only need 33 stitches, so either the one on the
left or right will work. The one on the left is
just a little bit bigger, a little bit wider spacing, and besides my loom
broke, poor me. So I’m gonna be using this one. I also have my loom hook,
we’ll need a tapestry needle, and you’ll need a tape measure. All right, grab your supplies
and let’s get started. All right, so we’re
gonna make this as much like the needle
pattern as possible, so I’m gonna put my
tail on right here, and we’re working to the left. It doesn’t really
matter if you work right to left in here,
’cause we’re gonna be making a whole bunch of miniature
rows in this pattern. Go ahead and mark
where your 33rd peg is, so you know where to stop. We’re gonna do a
true cable cast on, and I’m going to take my yarn, it’s already on a slipknot
on the first stitch. We’re gonna go in the direction, wrap around to the front in the direction we’re
gonna be knitting, so wrap around and we’re
gonna pull down and through, pull a loop down. I’m being delicate with this, because of the yarn
that I’m using. And then we’re
just gonna flip it and place it on that peg, and then pull back
to get that snug. So now we’re just gonna
pull the working yarn around into the front of this peg here. So in between the two pegs, in the direction
that you’re going, pull around, and
pull down a loop, and then you flip it, and
put it onto the next peg, and then pull it like that. All right, so that’s
what it looks like here. So from the top side
it looks like this, you go around this way,
and then you pull downward. So you’re gonna
do this 33 times, and when you go over
here, just make sure and move your working
strand over this way so it traps the yarn in in
the right spot, and then pull. Go all the way around
’til you get to peg 33. Pause your video now, and I’ll
meet you back at that point. See you soon. All right, so we’re gonna
start on this foundation row. I’m not really
calling it a row one, and you’ll see why in a moment, but the foundation row
needs to be purled across, purling all stitches. So we’re going to
go around the back of this first stitch here, and go underneath,
and pull up a loop, take off the old loop
and put on the new, and tighten that up, and
go onto the next one. So purl that next
stitch, take the old off, put the new on, and
continue across. So continue purling until you
get to that very last stitch, and we’ll begin row one. See you in a moment. All right, row one
is going to create little miniature mini
panels in one row. So these six stitches
are going to be worked back and forth several times, and then we’ll move on
to the next six stitches, and continue all the
way around the loom until you have three. So that’s how it’s worked, so
we’re going back and forth. Now there is no wrap
and turns on this. There are no wraps. We’re just turning, but
you’re not wrapping. You’ll see what that
means in just a moment. I’m going to give you
a couple of extra tools that you might
wanna have on hand. Now I’m moving
this stitch marker just so I can show myself, this is where I’m
starting row one, and I’m not gonna remove
this stitch marker again. I’m just gonna leave
it right there. Now you can do,
because we are working with a series of
stitches at one time, you could do another
stitch marker that you can take
on and off quickly, and mark just the six
that we’re gonna work. So one, two, three, four,
five, six, if you want to. I’m gonna visually
put this here, so you can see this, but I wouldn’t normally
be using this myself. You’re totally welcome to. Another thing that’s
handy is to have a piece of paper
you can mark on, or have a little clicker here to see how many
repeats you’ve done. It’s not necessary, but
it’s a cool tool to have. All right, so
beginning on row one, we’re going to knit
our first stitch. So I’m just gonna work
right around back, and just work that stitch over. And I’m gonna do the U wrap
stitch in this pattern. So the first one is kinda loose, so I didn’t go all the way back, but this next one I’m
gonna go all the way around the front of this
peg and knit over, and that is my knit stitch. We’re gonna go
around the second one and U wrap knit, and continue. So we’re just going and
doing a gentle knitting over. Be sure and don’t
make these too tight. This is a looser knit. We want this fabric
to be nice and loose, so if you’re usually tight,
feel free to make these E wrap if that makes you
more comfortable, then make them E wrap. All right, so I worked
all the way down to this marked peg here. This is number six. Now I’m going to knit
number six again. Knit that again. And go back, and go to
five, four, three, two, one. So I knit two rows
down and back, and then I’m gonna do
that two more times. All right, so we’re
gonna knit here, two, three, four, five, and six, and go back, one, two, three, four, five, six. And another time. And this is three,
two, I’m saying three ’cause I know it’s my
third time on here, three, four, five, and six, and then we finish that set,
and going all the way back. Now we’re ready to move
onto the next set of six, but we gotta get our yarn
all the way down there. So you are gonna knit
six more stitches in this little panel. Go ahead, knit, two, three, four, five, six. I am now done with those six, and I can tell that I have
a lot of stitches on here and I know where I’m going, so I’m just gonna
move on down here, and move my peg down,
and I’m gonna count, one, two, three,
four, five, six, put my little stitch marker in, or you could have
two stitch markers that you move and you
work between them, whatever works best for you. Now I’m going to
move onto this one. The first stitch here, I
want it to be a little looser and have some extra yarn, so you can either
knit it really loose, and pull back on this like that, or you could E wrap it. I’m just gonna knit
it really loose and make sure to
pull back on this. This has a really
pretty look on it when we get finished. And so if you’ll just make sure and pull back on that loop that
you’ve just made right here, and leave it. And it’s because we’re gonna be making these miniature panels, and you’re gonna want
that extra yarn here. So go ahead and
knit the next one, keeping it loose, and
work all the way down. And that’s really
all you’re gonna do, really six times. So one, two, three,
four, five, six, and then a seventh knit row
within that row and go down. So technically it’s seven knits, and then you kinda
scoot to the next one. All right, so keep doing that, and when you get down to
the last three stitches, you will work those
as a set of three. So I’ll meet you back
there just to remind you that it’s okay to do that. All right, pause your video and I’ll see you
in a little bit. So we have our last
three stitches, there’s not really any
need to move this one over. In fact it might confuse you, so don’t move it
if you’ve got it. Go ahead and start
knitting this one, and be sure and pull out
that long stitch again, and you’ll see
why much later on, but trust me, you
gotta have that. So we’ve got three,
and then work again, going back the other way, and if you discovered
when you pull on this one when you come back, it pulls
on your yarn back here, and so I just kind
of pull on that just to make sure its
ready for me how I want. So now I’m on the second pass, and coming back. Our third pass. Now this is the seventh
row to knit here, the little miniature
row within a row, so here we go. Now we do that so we
can get our working yarn all the way to this side here. All right, as you can see,
we’ve got panels on the inside, we’ve got five panels, one,
two, three, four, five, and then a sixth one
which is kinda short. So we’re gonna do the
same thing on row two. We’re gonna work six and
back, back and forth. So now when we work
six, one, two, three, guess what? We’re connecting
this part right here, so you can take this one
out, this stitch marker, and move it down
to the sixth one, and start working
in that direction. So yes it is exactly
the same as before. So we’re gonna knit
this direction, and stop here on the sixth one, and knit that one
again, and continue. And then when you get to here, when you start
doing the next one, you’re gonna be
making another space, and then the little working yarn that’s leading from
this direction, now you’re gonna have one
between these two stitches working in this direction. So it really is the same. All right, so continue
working on row two, and pause your video,
and I’ll meet you back up when your working
yarn is all the way on this side over
here on the right where that stitch marker is. All right, pause your video and I’ll see you
in a little bit. All right I’ve come to
the end of my row two, and you can see that my
work has grown a lot. The stitches are stretched out. You can see that, especially
whey I flip it over. See right there,
you can really tell these stitches
are stretched out. So it will relax as you’re
knitting gets longer. So it’s hard to
measure on something that gets really
stretched out like this, but we’re gonna get
to about 36 inches. You’re going to
repeat this pattern, this two row pattern
repeat, 11 more times. So you’re going to want
a total of 12 times on the pattern repeat. So that is actually
24 of these big rows. All right, so pause your video, and I’ll meet you back up
to show you the next step. See you then! All right, before
I finish up here, I want you to see my progress, and you see how it kinda
curls in a little bit, and that is exactly
what we want to happen, but down at the
bottom it’s curling just a little bit more
than I want it to, and I need this
for my next step, so I’m gonna go ahead and
lightly block this edge, and depending upon your yarn, if it’s not doing it, then
you can pass this step up, but I’m going to set up to steam and show you how to do it. I’m gonna use a little
travel steam iron, and if you’d like to
get one like this, you can click on the
link below to get that. It is an affiliate link, and it’s just a
quick travel steamer. So grab your supplies
and let’s do that or just pass it through and jump to the next spot
in the tutorial. All right, so I’m
switching on my steamer, it doesn’t take very
long to heat up, and as soon as I see this
little stream come out, I’ll know it’s ready. All right, so I’ve got my
towels prepared underneath, that way I don’t
mess up my workspace, and you can use, if you’ve got
one of those hot glove things you can hold onto it,
and hold your work so you don’t steam your hand. You can use that too. I’m gonna try and
be real careful and get far away from
where this curl is. So in a moment we’ll
start steaming. All right, you can see my
little steamer bubbling, and I’ve got some
steam coming out, I don’t know if you
can see that or not, but there is steam coming out. So I’m just gonna
start holding this up, and I’m gonna put
it near my knitting, but I’m not gonna
be pressing on it. So I’m just gonna
kind of hit at it, and kinda pull
down a little bit. And see how it’s starting
to kind of relax? I’m just doing a
little bit at a time. This is not the normal
way that I block my knits. A lot of times I wet
block them by hand, and I pin them, but
right now I’m just trying to get that yarn to
relax a little bit. And if you can see, that
curl is starting to go away. I’m gonna pull my hand
up a little higher here. I can’t turn this straight down like an iron steamer would be. I have another iron that
I use for larger projects. All right, so I’ve
got this settled down, and I’m going to be pulling from some of these side seams here. Let me go ahead and there we go. All right so I’m
gonna be pulling from some of these
stitches on the side here, but I wanted this to
lay down right now. And you can go back later
and do this if you need to, but I’m happy with
what that looks like. There we go. Oh wait, one more. See how if I turn it
too much it’ll pour out, so you can’t turn it
more than about this far. So I’ve turned this off and now we’re gonna
start on the next row. All right, I’ve
got my 12 repeats and I want to start decreasing. I’m gonna take 33 stitches, and move them down
to 11 stitches. My working yarn is on the right and so I’m gonna be
working and moving all these stitches
all the way down, and so it’ll actually remain
with 11 stitches this way. So you’ll be walking your
stitches down as we go. That way you don’t
have a bunch of gaps. Now what I’m technically doing is I’ll be knitting
two stitches together, and then passing
a stitch over it, so it actually is putting
three stitches down, so reducing from three
stitches down to one stitch. Now how I’m actually
gonna do on a loom is a little different
than on a knitting needle. I would normally slip the stitch and then knit two together,
and pass the slip stitch over, but in this case, the easier
way to walk the stitches is actually to slip
this first stitch and then I’m going to work
these two stitches together in a way that normally is
a slip-slip-knit (ssk), so it would be moving
this stitch here, the third one, underneath
this second stitch here. But instead, I’m actually
going to work this stitch in the way that it
would be appearing on top of this one first. It may not matter to you, but I just want you to
know what I’m doing. So I’m gonna knit this
third stitch first, and then I’m gonna
pick it up and place it on top of the second stitch. All right, so now that
I’ve got that done, I want to actually move that
on top of the first stitch which was slipped,
and we’re going to pass that slip
stitch over the top, which is basically
to knit it off. And you can see that I have
reduced all my stitches, and I’m gonna place them
down all the way down here to where that empty peg is. And now we’re working
everything to the left. I’m gonna do that
same thing again. I’m going to pass
this first stitch, and then I’m going to
skip that second one and go all the way down
to the third and knit it, and then I’m gonna move
it to the second stitch, and lift it up and
over so that it’s knit, and we’re gonna pick that up and put it on top
of my slip stitch, and knit that over, and
then I’m gonna pick that up and move it all the way down. And I’ve got all this
extra slack here, so I wanna make sure
and pull on that, and then I’m gonna start
moving my stitch down. As you can see, I have
a lot of extra yarn, and I’m just gonna use this
to start snugging that up and making it a little tighter. So that way I continue to
get this nice and drawn in, and I don’t have a
really gappy look. So let me show you that again, so skip where you’ve
got your working yarn. You’re going to
slip the first peg, skip this second one, so
that you can knit the third, and move it on
top of the fourth, and knit that up and over. That’s a slip slip
knit (ssk not a k2tog). You’re working this
stitch on top of this. You could move it, but
this is just easier. Then we’re going to
take that slip slip knit and put it on top
of the slip stitch, and we’re gonna pass slip stitch
over (psso) by knitting it. See how these are
all nice and snug? I’ve gotta move them down, so we’re gonna start increasing the length of our yarn
between them as we move, but we will pull on that
yarn and snug it up. So I’m gonna just
slowly work them down. You’re gonna be moving
a lot of stitches, but it’s worth it in the end, so just keep moving. All right, so I’m gonna
do this one more time, and then you’re gonna finish up, and I’ll meet you
back at the end. So skip the first peg,
skip the second peg, knit the third, put the
third on the second, knit that over, move it
on top of the first one, knit that over, and start
moving all the pegs down, all these stitches down
that you already worked. All right, so I will
see you in a moment, when you have done all of those, and don’t forget to
go all the way down to the right when you’re
moving these stitches, and then get all the slack out. Let me just show
you a few more here. So I’ve already started
moving this one over, I can start pulling on
that yarn to snug it up, and move it over. So I can pull on
this stitch here, and here, and here, and
see how all that yarn is getting evened out. It’s gonna make a big difference
in your knitting later. All right, continue that repeat and I’ll see you
in a little bit. I’m on my last three, and
if you’ve already done yours and you know that you
can just leave them really where they are, you don’t have to move
these last ones down. So be sure and pull
all the slack out. Once you’ve moved ’em all down, you can still do that. So if you didn’t do it before, just come all the
way down to the end and pull on them gently, and I’ve already really
removed most of the slack here, but just to show you that
there’s still some left, it will make a difference
in the final connection. All right, so I’ve
got that last bit. So now we’re going
to work to the right, and we’re going to knit
this last row here. So continue knitting
across, pause your video, and I’ll see you in a moment. All right, we are
ready for the bind off, and we are going to be doing a
bind off on the selvage edge, and it’s sewing it all
together at the same time, so you’re not actually sewing. So what you need to do
is look at your work, you see how it’s
decreased down here, you wanna go to the
back of the work, so just kinda pull this
up through the back, and you can see
how my working yarn is coming from the right. Let’s come down to
the cast on edge, and you can see here’s
my tail on the right. I wanna go to the
opposite of the tail. So going to the cast on edge, this is the end
opposite the tail, and I’m gonna be working
with this selvage edge here, so let me get some of
my yarn out of the way, and you can see it. So this is my wrong side, and then I have this
wrong side together, so with the wrong
sides together, we’re going to come to
this first stitch here, make sure your working
yarn is on the outside, and I’m going to start
picking up these stitches along this selvage edge here. So I’m gonna pick up this
first stitch along the side, and place it onto my
first peg of my loom. Then we’re going to
knit those two stitches, they’re essentially
getting knit together, and then we’re gonna pick
up another selvage edge the one right next to it,
and place it on the next peg. And then we’re gonna knit these. Right now, it’s just
like the basic bind off. We’re working the
first two stitches, and then we take
the second stitch, pick it up, and put it
on top of the first, and then work that stitch. And then we’re gonna pick
it up and move it over, we’ve just bound off one stitch. Now we’re going to
pick up another stitch before we start
binding off again. And so we see where we
picked up the last one, we’re gonna go down
to the next one. It may not look elongated, because we didn’t do
a slip stitch edging, so it’ll look sort
of like a purl bump. It’s not, but we’ll just pick
that up there and place it on. I’m just showing you because
it really is the next stitch. So we’re going to knit
these two stitches, just as we did before. All right, and then
we’re gonna pick it up and move it on top
of that stitch. And be careful not to
cinch it up this far. Make sure it kinda falls
back behind this next peg so you have a little
bit of slack in here. So lift that stitch up
and over and move it down. The trick is to not pull
on your yarn too much so where it’s really, really
tight on your bind off. All right, so we’re ready
to bind off the next one. Of course remember,
before you bind off you’re gonna have
to come over here, we had this last stitch here, so we’re gonna go to the
next that’s right next to it. So we pick that up, drop it on, and then knit these
two stitches together, pick it up, move it on
top of that first stitch, lift up and over,
and move it down, then continue on, pick
up the next selvage edge. So I’ve got that stitch,
that’s the long one here is that little short bump again. There we go. Knit that stitch,
move it, knit it over, and we’re gonna move down again, and I wanna pick up
another selvage edge, and there’s a long one here. Remember this is just
the outermost stitch
that’s on there, and knit that stitch,
and move it over, lift up and over,
and move down again. So continue until you
have your last one, and I’ll meet you back then. See you in a moment. All right, we’re on
that last stitch, and pick it up and over, and then you’re just
gonna wanna clip your yarn with enough tail, and then
you just pull it on through. All right, so we’re gonna
take this off the loom and weave in this tail. So you should have
this edging here. So this is where
it’s connecting, and it’s a gathered
edge, look at that, it has that nice little detail that you just added on there. There’s that this is
where your bind off is, and it has those
little chains there. So you’re just gonna
wanna take this stitch and weave it in. Now what I did on
my other version, here, we’ll just
use this needle, ’cause it’s easier to
see than that metal one. I went ahead and
flipped it over, and on the back end
I went ahead and knit on the back side
or the wrong side, I went ahead and stitched in
a few of these stitches here to kind of hold it
in a little bit more. So I’m just gonna go
to the opposite side, and go through a couple
of these little stitches. And just to give it,
because it’s on a shoulder I’m just going to
kind of shore up a couple of these stitches here. So I’ve just made
these kind of pull in a little bit more, and then it imitates this side
here where there’s the chain. And so you’re just
gonna wanna continue by weaving in your tails with
the pattern here on the back, and I have videos on how
to weave in the tails to disguise them, and
you’re just basically following the patterning of how the stitches are
already shaped around on here. So if you need a video,
I’ll put a link to that. All right, so continue
weaving in this tail, and then weave in your
beginning cast on tail, and I’ll see you in a minute. Well there we have the
Rolling Waves Knit Cowl, you’ve got your
shoulder design here with this gathered,
almost a pleated edge, and the asymmetrical line
with the point on it. Be sure and hit it with a
little bit of steam blocking or wet block this to
open up your laces even further if you
like, or at least just to have this edge
lay down a little bit. I’d love to hear you
comment down below. What yarn did you
use on this project? I’m really interested. Be sure and tag me
at @goodknitkisses on social media so that
I can see what you made. Thanks for joining us today, where we help you
stitch your love, and love your stitches. See you again soon.