[music] Hi. This is June from PlanetJune and today I’m going to show you a method for joining together pieces of amigurumi to give a really neat, smooth finish. I’m going …
[music] Hi. This is June from PlanetJune and today
I’m going to show you a method for joining together pieces of amigurumi
to give a really neat, smooth finish. I’m going to demonstrate using this Dimetrodon
dinosaur that I’ve been working on. When you’re joining pieces together in amigurumi, you’ll usually join an open-ended piece, like
this sail here, to a closed piece, like the body of the dinosaur, and that’s what this method is used for. To begin, place the open piece against the
closed piece in the correct position. You can pin it into place if you want. It usually isn’t necessary, but with a larger
piece like this it can be helpful. Now what we’re going to do is look at the
stitch on the open piece: here are the two loops of one stitch. You’ll be stitching through both of those
loops. And what you want to do is look at where that
stitch hits the closed piece, and we’re going to insert the needle directly
below that. So here I’ve started with this stitch. I’m going to insert the needle directly below
that stitch on the closed piece, and bring it up at the same point directly
below the next stitch, and pull through. Now we insert the needle beneath both loops
of the next stitch on the open piece, and pull through. Now here’s what makes this method special:
what we’re doing is, when we make this stitch over the closed piece, we’re coming out of, and going back into,
the same hole. So what we can do is pull the stitch very
tight, and what this does is makes the stitch almost
invisibly small, and pulls the open piece right down, so it makes a very smooth line against the
closed piece. To make this really clear, I’m going to do
a few stitches with a contrasting colour of yarn, so you
can really see what I’m doing. So here we’ve come out of one stitch on the
open piece. We’re going back into the stitch below that
on the closed piece, and come out directly below the next open
stitch. We’ll pull that through, and we’ll pull it
tight. We’ll go up under both loops of the next stitch
on the open piece, go back into the same stitch we came out of,
and come out at the stitch directly below the next stitch
on the open piece. We’ll pull that through, and then we pull
it tight. And it’s this pulling it tight that really
makes the difference. You can see the size of the stitch goes to
almost nothing, and that’s why the join is almost invisible. When it’s finished, you have a really neat
seam, and it’s almost impossible to see the stitches. So this is really the best way to get a good
finish on your amigurumi.
Let’s create together, a little baby’s hat. And the baby’s hat that we see in the background, is for a newborn. Okay and what we have here, is that we’re gonna …
Let’s create together, a little baby’s hat. And the baby’s hat that we see in the background, is for a newborn. Okay and what we have here, is that we’re gonna be using the two string configuration, and we’re gonna be doing, the twisted stitch, uh looming, for this project. What we wanna do, is we wanna start off with our slip stitch, or sorry our slip knot. So wrapping it around your finger twice. The back pull it forward, pulling the back one up again, pulling up. So there’s your first stitch, and we’re not gonna worry about this string, because when we do the brim of the hat, we’re gonna be burying that. Now because I’m right-handed, I’m gonna be going in a counterclockwise position. And you can see that there’s a peg on either side of this knob, and I want to take it, because I am right-handed, I wanna take it on to the left side. And I’m gonna pull it snug, but not tight. So then what we’re gonna do, is that coming from the center, we’re gonna pull into the center like you see. Going to the next one, gonna wrap, and come back to the center. Gonna wrap, come back to the center. Wrap, come back to the center. Wrap, come back. So we’re gonna go all the way around, doing this. So I’m gonna speed up, and we don’t want it too tight, nor do we want it too loose. And I figured I’m gonna do red and white, Canadian patriotic colors, because it’s Canada day coming up in a few days. So going all the way around. And the hats, I don’t know if I said, it takes about 30 to 45 minutes to make one. So we’re now back at the start again. So what we wanna do, is just work our way back through the ring, and push it it down, but halfway. Don’t go all the way. Don’t go crazy, and push it all the way to the bottom. Because you’re eventually going to have to move these up, over the top of the peg anyway. So it would be less, effort, if they’re only half way down. So what we’re gonna do now, is just go all the way around, yet again. So wrapping up to the start one again. So wrap, and go all the way. And in this round we wanna go, uh back to the, right back to the peg, that is just before where we started, and then we’re gonna stop. So like a pin, uh a paddle wheel, on a boat. I’m just rotating the, the wheel in my one hand, and I’m wrapping material with the other. And how do I know when I’ve gone all the way around? Well you’ll see two layers of stitches. You’ll see an upper and a bottom. So now what we’re gonna do, is that we’re gonna just grab the, this is where the peg we stopped at, so we’re gonna grab the one that’s in the bottom. So I consider the bottom of the ring, the bottom. And I work with my rings upside down. I don’t know, I’m sure everybody else does. I can’t see why you would turn it up, the other way. So you’re gonna stick it in and you’re gonna position your needle over top, and use it like leverage, to pull that over. So now what we’re gonna do, is work in a clockwise position. So now I just secured that, so now I’m going to work back. So, once you get that first one secured in, the rest of them is just a matter of pulling up, over, and I’m using my thumb to kind of push the stitch back about half way. I don’t want to go crazy and push it all the way to the bottom, because in the next row around, we’re gonna be pulling that row again, over the top. And normally when you would do this, you would work this on your lap, not over top of a table, like I’m showing you here. Making sure that, and pulling back down. Once you get this established, they will push back a little bit easier. This just matter your first line. So this is our first line, and what we wana do, is we need to do six of these lines. And then what we’re gonna do on this, we’re gonna be folding over the edge, to create the brim of the hat. And the brim, is basically the section of the hat, that is thicker, at the bottom. Just like so. So we’re gonna be creating that, after we’ve completed line number six. So on a piece of paper, what you wanna do, is when we get to the end, you’re going to write now, you’re gonna write from 1, uh to 6, and then, and then 1 to 15. So 1 2 3 4 5 6. And then again, 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16. Okay, so here this is the loose straggler. It basically is the loose end, so you wanna pull it toward the center of the ring, and let it hold into the center of the ring. Okay, so now what we wanna do, is that we wanna start off. So on your piece of paper, I’m just gonna here, on a piece of paper, I’ve got line number 1 done. So I’m gonna put a check mark, with line number 1. Okay, and now what we need to do, in order to stop this crochet from actually being really weird, is that when we go wrapping it around again, we’re not gonna always want to start and stop at the same peg. And the reason for it, it creates a really ugly seam when you do it. So whatcha wanna do, is you want to stop, on the, one peg before it. And I’ll show you as I get around. So we’re just wrapping this one, and now we’re working on line number two. Okay, so I wanna stop here. Okay, so I don’t want to finish that one off, because that is where we started from, as you can see underneath. Right? So if I always start and stop on this peg, then it’s gonna show an ugly seam. But if I stop the one before, and the next time I start, I’m gonna start here. It creates this seem to be on an angle, which is a lot more desirable. So we’ve just gone around. So I’m just holding it with my finger, grabbing the bottom one again, and again my bottom is the bottom of the ring, like this section even though it’s upside down. And it is the hardest one to pull over, because it is the start. Using your hook just push it over the top, and again moving everything down. So, what I need you to do, is go from 1 to 6. So you’ve already completed one, line number one for me, and so then, I need you to complete number 2 3 4 5 and 6. And then this video will pick back up, once we completed number 6, on showing you how to make the brim. So I’ll see in a few minutes. Which will be just a couple seconds on airtime. But I’ll just whip this through. It doesn’t take very long to do this kind of stuff. Okay, so according to my sheet, I’ve done 6 rows, and then I want on there from 1 to 15, for the next part of it. So what we need to do, is we need to turn this thing around. Okay, and see this is where I started, and because I, I stopped, the one post before, where this here is uh stopped here, there will be a difference. So you can see that the seam will actually be going in on an angle. Which is what you want. But having said that, now we need to turn the rim, up in order to create the, the nice thick, border at the bottom. So, how do we do that? Looking at it here, what you wanna do, is grab the material, and it’s gonna be kind of rolled in. Okay, and so basically you follow the stitch out. So let’s start off. I’m gonna start off with the one, this one here is where the peg, where it’s attached. So I’m gonna, it’s easier to work going in account, or a clockwise position. And the reason for it, you want to follow your stitch line up. Hopefully you can see it. Do you see how it’s a stitch line? And you want to get it toward, the very en. And at the very end, because we work for two stitches, you’re gonna use your little hooky. Wherever I put my hook, and, you’re going to grab, the two strings that are right on the end, of that. And whatcha wanna do, is you wanna grab it, and pull it toward, the actual peg, and put it right back on to it. Okay, so now that you’ve done that, the next one that, where the two are existing, will jump out right in front of your face. So now you’re just going to grab it, and pull onto the hook. You’ll see the next one. Grab it, and put onto the hook. Grab it, and put it onto the hook, and you’re going to work all the way around, doing this. And what you’re doing, essentially, is that you’re fastening it in. So that the next time you go around this, is that you will be uh essentially knitting, this brim closed. Uh, forever and ever amen, as you go around your next one. So let’s, so it just kind of looks really cool. You can see the stretching action of the, of the brim taking shape. Okay, now we’re coming up to our stragglers, and that’s what’s really important here. We wanna put the stragglers inside of this fold. So as we get closer to here, we wanna make sure the straggler ends up inside of the, this fold, so you don’t actually see where it is. So keep going, and so you’re just gonna lie the straggler on top in there. So it will happen to be in the fold. Okay. So you’re looking, so if you run out of these things on the sides, then you know you missed one. Okay, so you see how that stragglers now been trapped on the inside? That’s exactly what you’re looking for. Okay, and that’s the last one. So there you have it. They’re going all the way around. So what you want to do now, is push it down. So it’s got thickness now, so you just have to push down on the material, and it moved it all to the bottom, or bottom and middle. So what we need to do now. This is where we stop, so we’re gonna wrap it again. So wrap wrap. Okay, and this will be considered line number 1, of your next 1 to 15. And now the next part I’m gonna show you, okay, so because you are fastening the rim, you’re going to want to go all the way around. So don’t leave this, but normally you would have left that, because that’s the one right before the one that you started. You’d normally leave that empty, but on this one I want you to finish all the way around, so that there’s three, layers on each one. Now, looking here. This is from the bottom okay, to the brim, so push that over the top. Okay, and grab the bottom one, which is the bottom of the ring like I’ve explained before, grab that one and push it over the top. So now that’s fastened. Now I could grab both of these at the same time, and push over the top, but sometimes there’s a lot of pressure in doing so. So, you know what? What’s the hurry? It’s only gonna take you a couple extra seconds. It’s just grab two, push over, and grab the two, push over. And using your thumb pushing it back up. So I’m gonna go all the way around, and this, remember this will be line number 1, of your 1 to 15, that I’ve asked you to write down. 15 I’ve determined is the magic number for the perfect, baby hat, as far as doing double, and triple, and even single string. And all of my baby hats here, are going to be going to charity. And it’s just a perfect, great example for using up balls of wool that are left over, because knitting and does require a lot of wool. So the next complicated thing is that we’re gonna continue on your own, until you get to line number 15. So this was line number 1 of 15. So next time we go around this thing, let’s go around again. So this is where it’s starting, on that one, so we want, our next one is right up. And we’re just gonna continue to wrap. And as I wrap then, we’re gonna do the same configuration that we did before. We’re gonna stop, and not go all the way around, because then you’ll get that seam always on the same line. You’ll be very, it’ll be very evident, and you will not like it. Trust me. Okay, so you’re gonna leave the last one, untouched. So going up And this will be the start of line number two. So I need you to go until line number 15. Okay, so the first one we just created, so this will be line number two. Make sure you, uh keep checking it off on your paper, on your paper. So you don’t lose count. So I’ll meet you on line number 15, where we’re gonna actually join this project together, and create the actual top of the hat. Okay so I’m on, now I’m on row number 15, and when I go to wrap around, uh this thing, or the apparatus, I wanna make sure that I don’t leave the empty gap like I have been all along, between each row. I wanna make sure that I fill in the very last, and last row will have the entire, uh filled out, uh piece, so there will not be any empty, pegs left. So let me get there, and I’ll pick you up as soon as I get close to the end, where we can start then winding this, off casting it off, and then sewing the top of the hat together shut. Okay, so we’re just about finishing up, and I got four more left, and this will be the completion of row number 15. Let’s push it down a little bit. And what I need you to do after we get this done, is that we need to cut the string that is attaching, at this point. Okay, so the whole row number 15 is done. Okay, and what we need to do, is grab this string here, and cut it about 18 inches long. So cut that. So now, in your little kit that you would have received, you would have received this uh, uh material needle. And basically you wanna feed your string through that needle. Just like so. And what we wanna do, is use that needle now, to fasten, the top of the hat together. And we’re going to do it right on the actual spool. So this is where it starts, so you want to go to the next peg, which is right there. So sticking in, you need to go from the bottom of the ring, and I always say at the bottom is the actual ring part itself, you need to go in and down. If you go up, it causes the actual string to tangle. So on the very next one, you just wanna go in. Okay, and what I would do, because this needle is so cheapy plastic, because it is Walmart. Just kinda grab it right where, the string is, right there, and pull it over the edge. And as you keep going, this string gets looser and looser, and each one gets a little bit looser. And now whatcha wanna do, is you wanna hold this ring upside-down, because you don’t want these other strings to be catching into the teeth. Okay, so move into the next one. Just go down, pulling it over, and pulling your string through. Down. Pulling it off, and pull your string through. And you’re gonna keep going all the way around, just like so. And you, and there’s no point pulling it really tight, because see how you got there, if you, even if you pull tight, it’s not going to pull it off. So don’t go carried away, by pulling it all tight. We can do that at the very end. So just keep going down, and pulling it off. And by using the same string that you were knitting with this, you’re basically guaranteed that this thing will never unravel with you, because you’re using the same string to pull it shut. So it’s a really plus, that way. And you don’t want to be too uh, short on the string too, like 18 inches is pretty good. You just seems like excessive when you’re going to see how much you have left over, when you actually do pull it tight. But in order to get it off the ring, you do need it longer string, because you’re noticing that it’s getting shorter and shorter. Okay, we’re almost done. Now these needles that they provide you in the packaging, are really cheapy, crappy. So you don’t wanna put a lot of pressure on those. So if this too tight, if you haven’t mastered your tension, use your hook. To also, like if you couldn’t get it off, use your hook to help, pull that off, because you don’t want to bend this needle. And it’s your last one, coming off. So I can put that aside. Okay, so now you end up with the top that looks like so. So whatcha gonna need to do, putting your finger, this is the starting loop obviously, because you can see it going. So grabbing the string, not the needle, just kinda pull towards you. And see how it’s all bunching up? It, it’ll bunch up, really, beautifully, together. Like that. You get it like a perfect shape, top. So you pull it, really tight. So now what you wanna do, is grab your needle again, and go in the opposite side, just right in the very top. Do you see me really fussing where it’s going in? No, because I’m not worried about too much. So just making sure it stays nice and tight. Going in the opposite side just like so, and because it’s the same color, you’re really not going to notice it. So pull through, pull through beautifully, nice and tight. So now whatcha gonna do, is we’ve just come out there, so I wanna jump over and come in through this side. Just kind of like the ninety degrees, in a different angle. So going in, coming out this side, okay, pulling it through, again, beautifully nice and tight. And now I’m gonna, I usually secure it three times. So in, I’m gonna go in here, come out the other end, the other side, and pull it through. Okay, now you’ve pretty well fixed the top of it, pretty good. So what you’re gonna do, is now you’re gonna stick your needle right down through the center. Okay, and now you want to turn your hat inside out. So the needle is partial way sticking out, so you can find it. So this is inside out. Okay so pull your needle through. Okay, using the string to pull, because you don’t want to break your needle. So now we want to tie this string, closed. So just run it through, underneath some material. Okay, and then go right through that, loop. And do it one more time. Going into the loop. Cut your material. See, to about that, but you don’t see inside out anyway. You can see, and here is the completion, of my Canadian Hat, Baby tutorial. And because you’ll see a slight angle, going up to one portion of it, and that is because we, I had you stop, and, and stop, and go at, like I didn’t, I told you not to go around each post. Just leave one blank, every time you go around, and that’s basically, if you did not do that, this seam would be right on the one side, and you’ll have one completely loose string. So this will actually eventually straighten out, and it will look fabulous. And this is your baby’s hat. Forty-five minute tutorial, and voila.
How to crochet a little star Hello everyone, this is the DROPS team In this DROPS video we show how crochet after chart A.1 to the little star in DROPS Extra …
How to crochet a little star Hello everyone, this is the DROPS team In this DROPS video we show how crochet after chart A.1 to the little star in DROPS Extra 0-1481.
I’m going to demonstrate on how to load your loom, and this is a Walmart $9-99, particular rectangular loom. And this apparently is the easiest way to knit. I’m telling you …
I’m going to demonstrate on how to load your loom, and this is a Walmart $9-99, particular rectangular loom. And this apparently is the easiest way to knit. I’m telling you it is so fast, you can whip off a scarf in just a quick afternoon. And the thing about these Walmart looms is that these teeth and pegs are really spaced apart. So you actually need a really good thick material, in order to cover. You look at your socks, your socks are constructed in the same way, but the teeth are so close together, it creates a very fine knit and because these are so far, I almost like call these alligator jaws, because they’re so far apart you really need the material in between in order to create the effect. Now a lot of people say to use the outside tip as a way to to wrap it the first time. Don’t bother. You know you don’t want this thing coming apart on you so create a slip knot instead. So we’re going to wrap it around your finger twice okay, the back over the front and then push up. So you can backtrack that if you need to, so now you have the perfect slip knot. I’m right-handed, so I’m going to put it on the right-hand side of my top corner and I’m going to pull it snug, not too tight like don’t reef on it, and just let the straggler, which I call the loose ends, just fall in between the two. Your material is going to be growing inside the two. Inside this actual apparatus. So what we need to do is we need to start doing our wrap, and if I went like this, like this, like this, like this – It’s not grabbing onto anything. And the problem is that when we take it off the hooks, we need it to secure on to other pieces of material. So we can’t wrap it like this. So what we need to do, is going on the underside of that peg, wrapping up over, and now we’re going to come to the other side and we’re going to be under and then over, okay. So let’s go to the next one just directly across. So under, over and now you go to the next one. So we’re creating like this zigzag effect. and now do you see what I was just saying? These strings are kind of wrapping around the peg and that’s what helps it, gives it the stability to hold it together. So if I went like this, you can see that I didn’t get the same effect, so I have to go under, over. So I find for scarves, nine pegs is actually really sufficient, and it will make this project go really quick. So I better start counting. So one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, okay. And then we’re going to come to the ninth. And on the ninth, the last one, so if you went all the way across or even if you went tenth, this is exactly what you’ll do, is you’ll just come up into the other side like that. And you’re going to want to hang onto this, because if you let it go It’s all going to fall apart on you. So what you need to do now is just push down gently all the strings to about the half way point. Don’t go ape crazy, and push it all the way to the bottom, you’re just wasting your time. So about half way. So now we have to then continue to wrap, going back up. This is casting on. So we’ve finished on this side of the actual peg, and so just for the ends only, is that you go directly across to the next one. So directly across and then we have to rewrap the one that we just came back from, going on the over side of it, and then going under. And now we jump back up to the next one, so over and under You see that? So we’re creating the same effect And so when you look straight down in this sucker, you’re going to notice the strings up here, they’re in formation of a pattern but they also appear very um they appear to be all over the place. And you need that because that’s what’s helping to create the thickness and the quality of your thing. So if you’ve lost your strings or you’ve lost your tension, it will fall apart really quickly on you. So we’re going to get back to the top, so we’re going to end up on this side here, and so we’re just going to pull it back around. Don’t let go of the string yet. So what you want to do is, just flip it up on its side. And I’m still holding the strength. So you see I just flip up, still holding it. Going on the top one now. There’s two strings, and you’re going to grab the one that’s closest to the bottom, and pick it up and throw it over the peg. So now the very last one is now in place, so this will not fall apart on you. So working down the same side, you’re just going to go and pick the bottom ones up, throw them over the top. Now crocheting with this kind of string is really difficult, but actually loom knitting and knitting with really fuzzy string is extremely easy because it just stays together. Now with this particular project. We’re not rotating this thing, like all over the place, it’s not like a pinwheel. So we’re just going to flip it up, and we just finished on this side. Sorry. We just finished on this side. So we’re just going to start over here. Okay, now this side is very loosey-goosey So you’re just picking it up and throwing it over, because when it was all on there really tight, because one side has now been pushed over the edge, this side becomes extremely loose and fluffy. And we’re at the very last one there, so we just throw it up over the top So now we just want to push down and as it grows you’re going to see it coming out of the bottom section here. So now we’re going to start our … That was our casting on. So that was our very first cast on. So now we’re on the underside of this peg, and now we’re going to go straight across up and over, and then back to that peg and then up and over. Okay, and so we’re just going to, I’m going to put it back down. So we’re just going to go up. And again this pattern looks really random when you look straight down on it, but it’s actually very sequential and very well together. Now you can see the ball of wool is in the bowl. When you have a ball of wool like that, instead of it running all over the house and there are cats chasing it down, it’s just easier to leave it in a bowl, and it rotates really nicely. So we’re back on the bottom and I’m holding it, so I’m just going to flip up. Still holding it. Grabbing the bottom part section, throwing it over the top. Now that’s locked into place So now I’m just going to work my way back on the same side. Making sure I have both strings as I flip up over. These scarves, I literally, will probably take you about four hours, but they grow, it’s the quickest four hours you’ll ever have. These are actually really fun to do. Okay, so we just finished on this side. So we’re just flipping it up and continuing along. And again this side is going to be very loosey-goosey because we just pulled the other side off already. So it’s just, there’s like no pressure to it. You just put your hook in behind it and they literally just jump off. Okay, and then just push down a little bit, so that they’re about halfway down. And grabbing your string again. So we’re up over here. So straight across. Remember we came around, we’re on this side of this peg, so we come around on this side of this peg, up and over, and we go back around that first peg again. And we just work our way back up. I’m finding the angles a little hard because I’m trying to stay it within the camera, but also because this would normally be on my lap, tipped up on it’s side. Okay, and I just felt the string fall off. And I felt it fall off again. So I might have to put a little more pressure on it or get my aim to be a little bit better and now we’re back at the top. So we pull it back around toward the center, okay. Not letting it go. Flipping up, take the bottom over the top. And now that’s locked into place again, and we just continue along, and your scarf is just literally going to grow. So that is how you cast on and get your product started no matter what you’re doing.
Hi I’m Donna Wolfe from naztazia.com Today i’m going to show you some of my favorite tools for knitters and crocheters. The first item is a crochet hook holder that my …
Hi I’m Donna Wolfe from naztazia.com
Today i’m going to show you some of my favorite tools for knitters and crocheters. The first item is a crochet hook holder that my friends at Chetnanigans gave to me as a gift. You can find this organizer for aluminum hooks
as well as ergonomic hooks on the Chetnanigans Etsy shop. By the way be sure to click on the subscribe button to get notified of new videos from me each week. As you may know I wrote a broomstick lace book, available on Amazon Broomstick lace can be a little tricky because you have to hold a large knitting needle and
try to get loops onto it with your crochet hook. The designers at
Chetnanigans came up with this awesome broomstick lace pin. It can stand up so
you don’t have to hold it – or you can put it between your knees to keep your
hands free. Plus there’s a really nice groove for your crochet hook to easily
take off the loops. Again this is available at the Chetnanigans Etsy shop.
This next tool is by Boye and is pretty handy. It’s a yarn yardage counter. Instead of measuring your yarn with a ruler you can
place your yarn in this counter and lock it in. Now you can easily figure out what
10 yards or more of yarn amounts to. Another useful tool is the Knit Chek by
Susan Bates. If you have a crochet hook that you can’t find the size printed on
it, you can just place it in the holes to find which one fits perfectly. This also
works for knitting needles. Plus you can count your stitches and rows easily to
calculate your gauge in both knitting and crochet. By the way if you’re on
social media you can also find me on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, and Twitter. Now the rule is if you hand make a scarf you should hand wash the scarf.
Realistically a lot of people do not have time to hand wash items,
so these lingerie washing bags are a huge help to keep your hand knit or hand
crocheted item safe if the recipient chooses to machine
wash the item. If you’ve ever had a ball of yarn bounce all over the floor as you
knit or crochet you can see why a yarn bowl is very useful. Place the yarn ball
in the bowl and fish it through the swirls to keep it in place as you work.
This Colorscope color selector is a useful tool I found on Amazon if you
want to see if yarn colors blend and match together nicely. As you look
through it you can see these colors would make a lovely granny square baby
blanket. These yarn needles are a lifesaver
especially if you have trouble threading yarn through a needle. They are made by
Susan Bates and come in several sizes. You just pull apart that needle gently
and push in your yarn. They make larger ones or smaller ones to fit any size
thread or yarn. These Denise interchangeable crochet and knitting
sets are wonderful if you do Tunisian crochet. You can make an extendable
Tunisian hook to fit hundreds of loops for a large blanket. The knitting needles
are wonderful to make customized circular needles. And these are just some
of my favorite tools for yarnies. I hope this video has helped you. Please
subscribe to my YouTube channel and like and comment on this video. Check out the video’s description and the info button. Also this video has both closed
captions and auto translated subtitles. And please visit naztazia.com for more
tips and tricks on Creative Self-Sufficient Living.
I hope all you lovely people are smiling today and are ready to make this beautiful Lucy-Bee purse, its really easy you need very few items so check the description box …
I hope all you lovely people are smiling today
and are ready to make this beautiful Lucy-Bee purse, its really easy you need very few items
so check the description box below for everything you will need and lets straight into the tutorial. So lets start with our DK yarn and 4mm hook
and slip knot onto hook and now I am going to chain 6 so we are currently making the
front of our purse and after my chain 6 I am going to slip stitch into the first chain
to join, so we now have a loop. This is our 1st round and I am going to chain 3 and this
is going to count as a double crochet and I am going to do another double crochet into
the center of the loop that we made so we have 2 double crochet and then chain 1 and
were going to do this 6 times, were going to do 2 double crochet, chain 1, 2 double
crochet, chain 1 and were going to do this until we have 6 pairs of double crochet so
this is my 3rd double crochet pair, chain 1, 4th double crochet pair 5th double crochet
pair and my 6th double crochet pair and now I am
going to chain 1 and slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 that we made at the very
beginning and that is round 1 complete. To begin round 2 we need to move our current
yarn to the 1st chain 1 space beneath, to do this I am going to do a couple of slip
stitches in the previous row just to move the yarn along until I am inside the 1st chain
1 space from beneath, there we go so I am at the 1st chain 1 space and I can chain 3
and this counts as a double crochet and I am going to do another double crochet into
that chain 1 space I am now going to chain 1 and do another 2 double crochet into that
same chain 1 space and then chain 1 and repeat that in the next chain 1 space, so into the
next chain 1 space beneath I am going to do 2 double crochets, chain 1 and another 2 double
crochets all into that same chain 1 space then again I am going to chain 1 and find
the next space beneath and repeat the pattern, 2 double crochets, chain 1, 2 double crochets
and were going to do that into each of the chain 1 spaces from the 1st round, So I am
now doing the last of the pattern repeat in the last chain 1 space and to finish this
row I am going to chain 1 and slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 that we did at
the beginning of this round, and thats the end of round 2. Now for round 3 we again need to move our
yarn to the 1st chain 1 space from the previous row so I am going to do the same thing I am
going to slip stitch along until I am at the 1st chain space so there’s my chain space
and I need to slip stitch across to it there we go, and to begin the pattern repeat I am
going to chain 3 which will count as our 1st double crochet and then I am going to do another
2 double crochets into this chain space so we will have 3 double crochets all together
in here I am then going to chain 1, find the next chain space and do another 3 double crochets,
chain 1 find my next chain space and another 3 double crochets so by the end of this round
we should have 12, 3 double crochet clusters. I am now up to the last 3 double crochets
and I am going to finish by chaining 1 and slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from
the beginning of this row and that is round 3 complete. Were now onto round 4 which is exactly the
same as round 3, so slip stitch to move our yarn to the next available chain 1 space from
beneath so there we go I am in the chain 1 space and I can do the pattern repeat chain
3 which will count as a double crochet and then another 2 double crochets into this chain
space then chain 1 and into the next chain space beneath another 3 double crochets, messed
that 1 up. There we go so thats 1, 2 and 3 and were going to repeat that all the way
around, chain 1 and 3 double crochets into each of the chain spaces beneath so we again
at the end of this round should have 12 clusters of 3 double crochets I am just finishing my last 3 double crochets
and then to join I am going to slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 space I made at
the beginning of this round and that is the end of round 4. Moving straight onto round 5, we are going
to slip stitch across to the 1st chain 1 space beneath, there we go, so once were there I
am going to chain 3 which will count as a double crochet and then do 1 extra double
crochet into the space and chain 1, obviously needed more yarn, so we have done 2 double
crochets into that chain 1 space, now into the next chain 1 space we are going to do
2 double crochets, chain 1 and another 2 double crochets all into the same chain space then
chain 1 and do that all again into the next chain space so 2 double crochets chain 1 and
2 double crochets and we are going to do that until this pattern has been repeated 5 times,
so this is the 3rd time 2 double crochets, chain 1 and 2 double crochets all into the
same space, so now I am just counting to see how many of these pattern repeats that I have
done and I have one done 4 so I am going to do it 1 more time, 2 double crochets, chain
1 and 2 double crochets then to end this round we are going to chain 1 and into the next
chain 1 space we are going to do just 2 double crochets because were not working all the
way around this time we are only working half way, then we can chain 1, cut our yarn, and
fasten off and that is 1 half of our purse complete and now you need to go away and make
it all again to make 2 and then I will show you how to join them. Now on our last round we only worked half
way around our purse before we fastened off and these are the stitches that we are going
to use to join our 2 sides together, so I am going to have the wrong sides together
and on the 1st piece I am going to insert my hook into the 1st chain from round 5 and
then I am going to insert it into the 1st chain from round 5 on my 2nd piece, then I
am going to hook my yarn and pull through and I am going to tie a knot to secure, so
I have attached the 2 pieces together with wrong sides touching, I am now going to re-insert
my hook and pull up a loop and I am going to weave in these ends as I go, and we are
going to do a shell stitch boarder to attach the 2 pieces together, so into the 1st chain
space of both pieces I am going to do 6 double crochets so you have to make sure your going
through the chain space of both pieces, thats 3, 4, 5 and 6 then into the next chin space
of both pieces I am going to insert my hook into both of them and do 1 single crochet
and into the next chain space of both pieces I am going to go through both of them and
do 6 double crochets so we are making a shell stitch all the way around, thats 3 double
crochets,4, 5 and 6 then find the next chain space of both pieces, insert you hook through
both and do a single crochet and we are going to repeat that again, 6 double crochets into
the next chain space and then single crochet into the next chain
space, so I am now onto my last 6 double crochets and I am going to do my last single crochet
into the last stitch of the previous round, so the last stitch of round 5 for both pieces
I am going to do a single crochet, and now I want to neaten up the top of our purse and
to do that I need to single crochet around the perimeter, so to get to the bottom I need
to chain 2, sorry I need to chain 3 and now I can single crochet around the top of the
purse this is just to make the edges look that little bit neater and it will give me
a bit more reinforcement for when I sew in the lining and the clasp at the top. Now I
am at the end of this row of single crochet we will be turning our work and working along
the opposite side of the purse opening, so I am going to single crochet straight into
the 1st stitch and continue to single crochet all the way along this side also, And now
I am at the end of my single crochets I am going to do a slip stitch and fasten off and
the crochet part of our work is done. So there’s our purse shape and now I have to go and weave
in all these horrible ends.
this is Kelley and we’re looking at how to make a vertical seam or a mattress stitch so I’m looking at this sample in the building blocks pattern book from Michelle …
this is Kelley and we’re looking at how
to make a vertical seam or a mattress stitch so I’m looking at this sample in
the building blocks pattern book from Michelle hunter and first thing we
notice is that we have our blocks facing up the right side up and it’s facing
towards us the second thing we is worth noting is that we have our cast on edge
is on the bottom on both sides that’s your cast on edge and up here at
the top is your bind off edge they both have the bind off edge here’s this one
okay and I’ve done a little bit here for you so you can see and this is just when
it’s completed and let me show you the back because I want to show you a couple
things about this so you flip it over from here to here I have gone one stitch
in and picked up the vertical bars two bars on each side up to here and then
from here up to here I did it on the very edge on the very first stitch I was
picking it up what I was trying to do is see if I can get less of a bulky seam on
the back and still have the integrity and the strength to keep the block
together and actually it looks pretty good the integrity is good on both of
them this one right here it’s not woven end
so but you can see up in here it’s plenty strong enough to support that
block and keep it together so let me show you how to do this so I have taken
these little safety pins and you kind of pin them and how you want them to be and
you might have to ease in some if one’s a little longer than another you could
take two bars on this side if this side was longer and take one bar on that side
for you know want one stitch here and there too
even even it out so when you get to your very last stitch it’s even on top so let
me take this pin off of here and show you how we do it so you’d go to the very
edge this with these blocks were donated by one of our knitters at alpaca direct
and so it’s wonderful that actually let me start on the left hand side here that
we were able to use these Thank You Shelly if you’re listening she’s
wonderful knitter and was generous enough to donate these so that we could
use them so I have one stitch on each side and notice that my darning needle
is always going working toward the top okay and what this yarn that I’m using
I’m using contrasting yarn today so that you can see what I’m doing but
ordinarily you would use the same color as yarn as you knit with and that way it
shows less but for today’s purposes I’m using contrasting color do note that
when you’re measuring how much yarn you need for your seam it’s three times the
length that you’re gonna be working on three times the length okay so you want
to give yourself plenty of yarn so that you don’t run out of yarn before you run
out of block to see so on this first one you would pull these apart and do you
see how if you look really close right here do you see those bars these bars
right here those are the bars that you’re going to be working on this is
one stitch away from the edge so you would take this this first one is kind
of the ends are woven in right here so it’s kind of sucked in a little bit but
you could take two bars from this side and you don’t have to pull it tight
until you get up you can do like five stitches and then two bars from this
side okay and then you would go back and forth going from the left-hand side to
the right-hand side and where you came out is where you go into
and then you pick up two more bars sometimes it’s that people like to pick
up one bar and you can feel free to do that if you like I find that I prefer to
have my seems less thick I don’t want it to feel like a hard bump and so I find
that by picking up two bars it prevents that from happening just a little bit
more so we go along and it’s two bars on each side and I’m always going in where
I came out of so going in where I came out of and I just do this all the way
along the top see you and you can tighten it up you can pull what you
don’t want to do is you don’t want to pull it too tight because you don’t want
it to be a really thick hard bump but you can pull it tight it tight enough
see if you pull it like that you can not even see your seam do you see that and
it’s strong and sturdy and so look on the back do you see that
that is the ridge that you get so you want that to show on the back of your
work now let me just show you a couple where I just went to the very edge okay
so I am going to go I’ve gone in this side already I’m going to open this up
so I can see and I’m gonna go from here up to the very edge stitch okay and see
if we can create a little tiny bit less bulk by going all the way to the edge
and it’s a little bit it’s not quite as easy going to the very edge trying to
decide where you want to insert that needle but you can just do the very best
that you can and I would even go right into there like that and then I’ll show
you after a few what this looks like so I have to go in right where the other
one is so I have to kind of open it up a little and that one mmm let’s see how
does that look like that see if that works and if you for some
reason something doesn’t look quite right don’t be afraid to take
get out and try it again it’s all about having patience and get and really
working on it until you find the look that you’re going for get it as neat as
you can get it so that you can be so proud of your work when you’re done and
enjoy the finishing don’t tell yourself that it’s icky or you don’t like it tell
yourself that it is a challenge and you’re going to win the challenge and
make the best project ever so if you see see how nice it kind of closes up like
that now let’s look on the back see right here where there’s a lot less bulk
right here and more bulk up here so it’s all in personal preference whatever you
like to do but those are two different ways to do it one with a little bit less
bulk and one with a little bit more bulk so you decide what you like and let us
know what works for you
Good morning, this is Kelley with Alpaca Direct and I’m talking to you from Boise. My daughter is getting married this next weekend So we come down the guitar and letter …
Good morning, this is Kelley with Alpaca Direct and I’m talking to you from Boise. My daughter is getting married this next weekend So we come down the guitar and letter home and we are gonna be helping Lauren all week this week So we are filming from a park near where we are staying in our motorhome Anyways, it’s beautiful here in Boise. But boy is it hot. I’m telling you. So today we are going to be talking about projects that we love to knit for summertime knitwear and I will also be giving you a little tip that you can use when you’re swatching for your first sweater So you can keep track of your needle size while you go along So I’ll show you that a little later on. First of all, I wanted to talk about Our price winner from this last week and it was for this lovely clover Stitch gauge made of needle row capture. Should I say and the view sizer and The our winner for that was Diana Let’s see Diana, how do you spring it? So if you can contact us with your shipping information, that would be great Then we can get these sent in the mail to you also for this week We have a new contest going up and it is for one skein of this lovely Mallory doe Makita and this is a fingering weight yarn and it is lovely and it’s hand painted gorgeous hundun But okay. So how you enter to win? This contest is you would tell us what you’re working on and you post comments in the comment section and you’re automatically entered To win and then next Monday or Tuesday We will be picking another name and you’ll whoever name is picked well when the price so go ahead and post your comments in the comment section and Let us know what you’re working on so that we can share with others and hopefully we can all learn from each other So that’s a great way to go so I wanted to talk about summertime knitwear and I was looking at the projects and going why do you do a Lot of knitters like the projects and choose the projects that they have chosen to knit And why do they knit them over and over? Why do some projects like zig zag scarf or what? have you they have over six thousand projects and People just love knitting it and I’m sitting here thinking to myself. It’s because the patterns are clearly written and it’s relaxing knitting it’s not difficult to do and we can Distress while we knit and so the first project that I wanted to talk about today is a Churchmouse pattern and this, isn’t it? this isn’t it using Sabine and kids set up and you put this right over your head and so these two yarns are held together and you can make it like a little poncho type thing or you can scrunching it up and make it more cowl looking and Sorry, I’m wearing a shirt. That doesn’t quite match. I forgot all about it My boobs. Anyways, we’re doing our facebook lives on the road. So everything is not quite like cabinet at home But this Churchmouse pattern is a wonderful pattern and tons and tons of people have knit this pattern and it’s found on alpaca direct comm and It is simple increasing and carrying two strands of yarn together. It’s a very quick knit just nuts and pearls and it is great fun church mouse makes Terrific patterns so that is the first pattern I wanted to talk to you about and then the next one that I have here is called the Pretty little ballerina sweater and this is a Debbie bliss pattern and I just simply love this and it’s using cash merino And it is really super cute. It’s not for the faint of heart and it’s not for the beginning knitter But it’s darling. I love it Super super cute and why are you making little sweaters like that now, um, well Sometimes yours you can forego the simplicity of the pattern and try something that’s a little more difficult and if you’re gonna try something difficult Using a baby sweater is the way to go because it’s a small project and even though it’s difficult You still can get through it with just a couple skeins of yarn So that’s why I think that’s an awesome thing plus little shrugs. Even for babies are just darling So anyway, that’s a really really cute Debbie bliss pattern. Which Ari says hi. Hi, sorry chilly Oh, good morning. Good morning. Nice to have you Taking your time out of your day to spend some time with us now this next project that I’m going to be talking to is called the con Coon top and This has no shaping at all is – you’re basically making two rectangles And this one looks like it has a snag in the back of it, but here’s the other side of it I think you can wear it from either side and this it’s basically you just It’s two rectangles so you put together at the shoulders Okay One second here. Let me take my glasses off so I don’t My head I have never tried this one on before and this was just a Sample that we had in the store and I think it was tie. He used some biosea Which is the yarn from Plymouth that is no longer being made But this has very little shaping to it and it fits almost anyone and a lot of people a lot of metres in our knitting group and in that coming the shop have made this cute little T kind of shrug or whatever you call it But it’s really really cute and it’s fun because it has a little bit of drop stitches and a little patterning on it But it’s just basically two rectangles that are sewn together after you’re done So that is agreed Colleen says hi. That’s cute. Hi Colleen. Thank you Yeah, that is pretty cute tie. One of our knitters is he’s a fabulous he’s a Very talented dinner and we’re happy to have him doing some projects with This last one that I wanted to show you it’s called the crochet mobius towel. Hold on for a second There’s a question from Carolyn. She said is that broomstick lace knitting? No, it’s not exactly Broomstick. It’s just a simple drop stitch and what you would do it I think it’s yarn over twice and then on the next row you drop the first yarn over and knit the next one it’s super simple and it’s suitable for very novice knitters so and this pattern can be found free on Ravelry and it’s good for People who are just wanting to start to make garments that are better actually, they’re gonna be wearing and require a fit because you can Customize it a little bit but it’s not it doesn’t have a lot of shaping and things like that. So I also wanted to go into a couple ideas for our begin to Knitters and crochet errs, and I wanted to talk about a couple things before I talk about the crocheted mobius scarf here so, um when we have a begin to knitter or any knitter who is watching for Actual project. I just wanted to show you this little trick that I have here Okay so this is vintage chunky and and I Had I just used different needles that they had and I would have it it needs to be at leat your swatch needs to be at least four inches wide and It’s better if you have four inches tall, okay. Mine is a little short It could use to be a little bit taller than that, but it still might work and when I have my skein of yarn wound into a cake and you Have that you can have this down at the yarn shop if you don’t have a ball winder and swift at your house But I would grab the outside of this game to do my swatch and you see that I have not cut it off. Okay? it’s still attached to the Cake, okay, and then I have used a number eight needles on this So if you look closely two four six eight, there are eight purl bumps there Okay, and that shows me that on this swatch right here. I have used a number eight needle Okay. So on this next one up here, I’m using a number nine needle so I will have when I get four inches up I will have nine purl bumps there and then I would continue on up with the number ten and I Would have ten purl bumps just like this after I’m done with that one that way when you bind off your swatch you Actually can tell what needle sizes that you used for your project It’s a handy way to do that and then what you would do with your swatch after you get it all done is you would leave it attached to your actual cake of yarn and You would get it wet in the sink and wet lock it and pin it down. Let it dry. And There would be the yarn would still be attached and then you can check your gauge and decide What size of needle you want to use for your project? And Then once you have chosen that What size needle you want to use for your project? keep this intact and use this cake as your very last cake that you knit with and just in case you need to refer back to this swatch because a lot of people will choose their needle size and then they take it apart and then they knit part of their sweater and realize that that gauge is either too tight or it Looks sloppy or it’s too loose and you would actually have been better off if you kept your swatch intact for as long as possible until sure that you’re going to be completing that sweater Fenton you could get this damn and And let it dry unwind it and then just wind it back onto your cake and then you could knit with it again and Use it for your actual project instead of cutting it and then making another end that you would have to Weave in which you know, we don’t like weaving in it So also I wanted to talk about Oh Carolyn says, that’s a cool spot. Ch2oh Thank You Carolyn. That’s wonderful I’m always thinking about how it can help you be more successful and have four more fun knitting and crocheting while you’re Relaxing and having a good time Just these little tiny tricks that I’ve learned along the way that I wish that I would have Been told or you know known upfront as I would want to his first beginning it would have given me a great Hands up, so I’m trying to help you with that So I had a few tips for knitting a sweater with success and some things that I was thinking about is Of course making sure that you’re checking your gauge carefully I know that get checking gauge Seems like it takes a lot of time but really checking gauge Saves time because if you your gauge is not on or it’s not correct Then you’ll have to redo your project or you will complete a project that you’re not satisfied with So always check your gauge and then I would recommend sticking with a top down knit in the round Raglan design and the reason why I like Reglan is the nitin sleeves Require short rows and different things that maybe you haven’t done yet and you know how I love to do No, more than three new skills at a time So if you pick too many new skills, it’ll make it harder for you to be successful Also, I’d like to make sure that when I’m knitting my first sweater don’t buy the most expensive yarn in The world because it’s your first sweater you need something to learn on so that you won’t be disappointed and say now I don’t need knit sweaters because I Tried it once and it was too expensive and it didn’t turn out right? No, don’t do that to yourself pick something such as encore worsted by Plymouth, which we carry vintage Worsted by Barako Which we carry and this is all at alpaca direct comm and then when you get a little more experience under your belt I would say go ahead and try maybe some superwash merino wool Made by Malory go and this is called ríos It’s an excellent yarn, but wait until you’ve done a few sweaters so that you’re sure that you can make something That’s worth wearing because this is a little bit more money and I don’t want you to waste your money until you get more Experience under your belt. Okay, and then I would also say you want to look for designers that write their patterns clearly a good way to do it is to look on Ravelry and Look say a big internet sweater. For instance or Raglan sweater and look for easy patterns maybe easy Raglan top down sweater or something like that search it in the search bar and Ravelry and see what they come up with and then look at reviews. Okay, and certain designers are excellent. I know That Morocco has several several patterns that are good and those are also found on our website So give those a go and we have reviews on our site too. Yes Yes It’s always good to look at what other people say about the patterns because if there’s a problem with the pattern Will tell you and then they’ll tell you what they did to fix it or make it better So you always want to know about those things up front Okay, and then I’m if you’re going to be looking at a tea or a tank or something And it’s your first time of doing that kind of project and it has a design on the sweater for instance take the design off do it in stock in stockinette stitch for the first time and you Get less skills that you have to learn less things to keep track of and a greater chance that you’re going to be Successful on your project because what you really want is to get some experience under your belt and enjoy it and give yourself some Confidence some knitting cup confidence while you’re doing your sweaters. So that is a good thing to do now I this morning and I just spent a little time and went to Ravelry to see if I could find a few things that I would recommend for your beginning projects for doing a cardigan or sweater or what have you and since I said Raglan I Was looking particularly for a bracelet. Okay. So the first one that I would recommend is Kohl’s Stripes and stripes and this one is for begin to knit sweater it’s for six to twelve month baby, and it’s a regular style and it was very cute and very easy to Understand the pattern was like two pages and that’s what you want to look for You don’t want to look for a bunch of short rows increases/decreases everything that is Kind of, you know adds more difficulty You just want to learn the basic construction of a sweater and get some experience under your belt the next one That I would recommend is oh also the Stars and Stripes pattern was rat written by classically For classic elite yarns by Susan Mills by Suzanne Mills wrote that one and it was really cute and easy to do The next one I recommend is a regular Adult size sweater and it’s called brick by Claire Lee and it just recently Popped up on Ravelry stopped 20 patterns, and it was really cute. I thought and That again was a Raglan round neck sweater by Claire Lee and it’s called for it Okay, and the next one that I found and this one was in crochet? And it’s called the crochet baby sweater by Beth Koski Kos ki and That was a free pattern on route 42 all of these patterns are free and they were found on Ravelry For you to enjoy If you’re doing a sweater for the first time, so Linda from Northern California says hi And they’re also wondering what the prize is for this week, oh Okay back again, here it goes This one is called Makita and this is a hand-painted yarn by Malibu go, isn’t it? Beautiful? It’s their new it’s like a dotted colorway and It is number 670 and it’s called atomic I thought it was absolutely striking and I thought y’all might enjoy so you remember how to sign up to win for this prize and you sign up by put entering comments in the comment section and Showing us pictures of what you’re working on. Oh my gosh I have answered so many people this last week and there’s some lovely Projects out there and you guys are so inspiring that you make me want to knit faster So I can do more of the projects that you guys are doing. So anyway, so here’s the contest for this week It is called Makita and the colorway of atomic number 670 So put those comments in the comment section and sign up to win a prize So I am here again at Boise at a local park nearby where we are staying Jim. Can you show everyone how pretty it is? It’s beautiful here. It’s my daughter is getting married this next Saturday. So we’re here to help her So we’re doing Facebook live away from home, but it sure is nice sharing time with you today And I hope you guys have a beautiful day and enjoy your summer knitwear projects
